Recorded Thursday, November 3 – Presented by Air Products
Retinol is among the most studied cosmetic active ingredients, having accumulated decades of evidence demonstrating its effectiveness and safety. As anti-aging solutions proliferate, often with dubious claims, consumers are honing in on retinol as a trustworthy solution that can work to improve their appearance. And in their zeal to boost results, consumers are demanding ever higher levels of retinol in their formulations.
This webinar discusses the challenges of formulating with high loads of retinol and presents a new solution for formulators of these products: InuMax Advanced Retinol Cosmetic Active. Using a patent-pending delivery-system technology, InuMax Retinol reduces the risk of skin irritation even in high-retinol containing formulations, provides a superb retinol stability profile, and enhances the bioavailability of the retinol by delivering it into the skin.
Join us to learn you how can provide high-load retinol products that can lead to the results your consumers want without the possible drawbacks that high retinol use-levels can generate.
Download the slides (for Prospector Members only) | Webinar Transcript
Webinar Transcript
Michael: Inumax’s advanced retinol uses a patent-pending delivery technology which helps to reduce the risk of skin irritation, even in high retinol-containing formulations, while at the same time provides a superb retinol stability profile, and enhancing the epidermal viability retinol. But let’s get this started looking into the retinol functions in the skin. As you can see in these slides, retinol is among the best well known and well-studied cosmetic ingredients available to use for formulators. And consumers believe in the reliability of retinol as a solution to improve the appearance of their skin.
So let’s review the functions of retinol and why it is an essential ingredient for the formation and maintenance of the skin. The first thing is that retinol is also known as all-trans retinol belongs to the family of endogenous natural retinoids. Therefore, it’s not a synthetic ingredient, and it’s one of the lipid soluble compounds that constitutes the vitamin A. So also, including retinyl esters, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. And many of the functions of the vitamin A are mediated by retinoic acid, which regulates gene expression by activating the skin cell retinoic acid receptors.
Therefore, the anti-aging effect of topical retinol is mainly linked to the conversion of retinol into retinoic acid in the skin, which requires several oxidative steps. And we show here in the retinoic acid metabolic pathway, retinol is a precursor of synthesis of endogenous retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. The oxidation of the retinol results in the formation of an aldehyde, which is called all-trans retinaldehyde, or mostly commonly known as retinol. Which can be further oxidized in a keratinocyte to a carboxylic acid, which is called all-trans retinoic acid or tretinoin. The retinoic acid is synthesized and can be either initiate a signal event that regulates the transcription of the target genes, or can be further oxidized to four-hydroxyl retinoic acid, driving its degradation and activation.
The gene activation induced by retinoic acid in the skin cell, mainly modulates the thickening of the epidermis, the UV induction of extra-cellular matrix metalloproteinase, the simulation of collagen synthesis, and the regulation of keratinocyte terminal differentiation. So proliferation of keratinocyte. Retinol seems to play a key role in the aging process of the skin, since many aging-dependent changes may be reversed by topical application. These changes are associated with an increase of the smoothness of the skin, or can be changes associated with the improvement of the coarse wrinkling. For instance, through the compaction of the stratum corneum, the thickening of the granular layers, the increase of intracellular new skin deposition, or simply by increasing the synthesis of collagen and inhibiting its degradation.
As we can see in the next slide, retinol is widely used in personal care, and is an ingredient which commonly is used in anti-wrinkle products for facial care, for body care, for hand care, and some other reason or even green source application. Most retinol-based cosmetic formulations are used to counteract skin aging and photoaging. There are many references and literature related to the applications, both in the skin aging as well as in photoaging. And the intention is to prevent the oxidative stress or to control cutaneous bacterial flora. It is in the field of repair of the damage caused either by the age, chronological aging, or by overexposure to the sun, that retinol has proven to be extremely active. Download the full transcript here…
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