Sustainability Demand Drives Innovation
Surfactants are an essential part of personal care products as they are found in a wide range of home and personal care applications. They serve as the core ingredients for cleansing, foaming, emulsifying, solubilizing, and conditioning purposes in personal hygiene products. While conventional surfactants serve functional purposes, they are characterized by a lower eco profile with common concerns in the areas of sustainable sourcing and environmental footprint. Furthermore, some of these conventional surfactants are known to have a high potential for skin irritation.
As consumers become more aware of the impact their purchases have on the environment and their health, the industry is shifting its focus towards more sustainable and milder ingredients. One example is the use of biosurfactants, which are made from natural sources by fermentation. Glycolipids are among the most popular biosurfactants because of their performance benefits, attractive natural claims, and their excellent sustainability profile.
As an expert in the biosurfactant technology, Evonik is leading the way in the industrial-scale manufacturing of high-quality glycolipid biosurfactants that reduce environmental impact. The glycolipids are produced by microorganisms through fermentation processes, and their nature-identical structures offer ready biodegradability and unprecedented eco-friendliness (Figure 1). Evonik is committed to producing glycolipids from responsibly sourced raw materials with continuous improvements to optimize our environmental footprint and waste management.
These versatile glycolipids not only provide personal care brands with a unique selling point in terms of sustainability, but also offer effective foaming and cleansing properties, making them ideal for use in gentle personal cleansers and various other applications. This article focuses on the value proposition of glycolipids in promoting sustainability and highlights examples of the benefits they offer to consumers.
Figure 1: Sustainable step change in cosmetic ingredient technology
High-Performing Glycolipids Range
RHEANCE® One
High-performing, multifunctional rhamnolipids with excellent foaming, cleansing, and solubilizing properties. RHEANCE® One also offers a non-bitter taste in oral care applications compared to conventional surfactants. This biosurfactant is ideal for all personal hygiene applications designed to reduce negative environmental impacts.
This acidic-rich sophorolipid is the latest addition to our eco-friendly glycolipid portfolio. It offers outstanding cleansing performance and good rinsability without compromising the foaming properties of the formulation. SOPHANCE® LA-A is the perfect choice for mildness-driven personal care applications on sensitive skin because it is gentle to the skin, mucous membranes, and eyes.
Sustainability Profile of Glycolipids
Glycolipids present a unique opportunity for brands to stand out from their competitors by using innovative and sustainable ingredients. This can add value to their products and attract consumers who are looking for eco-friendly and innovative options (Figure 2).
Glycolipids are readily biodegradable with a significantly lower aquatic toxicity compared to traditional surfactants, which means they are less harmful to aquatic life and can help reduce the environmental impact of products. This is a crucial consideration for companies that are committed to improving their footprint and achieving their sustainability targets.
Additionally, the use of glycolipids produced from sustainable feedstocks has a reduced impact on the carbon footprint of products. Conventional surfactants are frequently obtained completely or partially from non-renewable resources like petrochemicals, which contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. In contrast, glycolipids are obtained from responsibly sourced plant-based feedstocks through an optimized fermentation process that requires less energy and generates fewer emissions.
In summary, glycolipids provide an eco-friendly and innovative option for companies seeking to decrease their environmental impact and cater to the increasing demand for sustainable products. The integration of glycolipids into their products can help companies gain a competitive edge, minimize their carbon footprint, and support ethical and sustainable practices.
Figure 2: Sustainability features to add on branding value
Consumer Benefits
In addition to their impressive sustainability profile, RHEANCE® One and SOPHANCE® LA-A also have exceptional skin and scalp compatibility, making them the perfect choice for personal care products designed for sensitive skin. These innovative ingredients have been specifically formulated to provide gentle and effective cleansing while delivering a range of benefits to the skin and hair.
Skin Compatibilities
According to in vitro mildness assays such as the red blood cell test, both glycolipids have been shown to be significantly gentler to the skin compared to conventional surfactants. This makes them an excellent choice for improving the mildness of final formulations and providing comprehensive care for end-consumers. (Figure 3).
Figure 3: RHEANCE® One and SOPHANCE® LA-A are both classified as non-irritants by the Red Blood Cell Test
Sebum Reductions
RHEANCE® One glycolipid has shown promising results in reducing skin sebum for blemished skin without negative side effects. In a controlled in-vivo study with 20 participants, the effects of RHEANCE® One treatment were compared with a placebo three hours after rinse-off application. The study revealed a statistically significant decrease in skin sebum values after four weeks of using the RHEANCE® One treatment at different use levels without causing skin irritation. These findings suggest that RHEANCE® One can be an effective ingredient in cosmetic products designed to decrease skin sebum (Figure 4). The promising results of RHEANCE® One glycolipid in reducing skin sebum may also have the potential for improving scalp conditions in scalp cleansing applications.
Figure 4: RHEANCE® One is an effective treatment for blemished skin
Example Formulation
This mild cleaning formula is composed of RHEANCE® One, which provides excellent cleansing, foaming, and solubilizing properties, and SOPHANCE® LA-A, which functions as a mildness enhancer with good cleansing properties. VARISOFT® EQ 90 esterquat is an excellent sustainable alternative to conventional conditioning agents such as behentrimonium chloride, and it improves the conditioning properties of skin and hair. Additionally, TEGO® Remo 95 MB offers hydrophilic emolliency that further improves sensory and moisturization. This demonstrative formulation is perfect for facial and scalp cleansers where mildness is essential.
Figure 5: RHEANCE® One is an effective treatment for blemished skin
Collaborating with the Right Partner
As consumers increasingly prioritize sustainable lifestyles, the personal care industry has a real opportunity to create more appealing, natural products using glycolipid-based biosurfactants.
Evonik is committed to producing high-quality glycolipids from responsibly sourced ingredients while continuously improving its environmental footprint. Evonik sets a positive example for the industry by prioritizing feedstock transparency, raw material quality, and ethical actions such as safety and environmental responsibility. In recognition of these aims RHEANCE® One has recently received a sustainability award from the American Chemical Council for Product Safety, Innovation & Transparency.
Evonik continues to invest in the development of sustainable raw materials and partners with our customers to create innovative and sustainable personal care products. Find out more by visiting our website here.
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