As Merriam-Webster defines it, “to exfoliate is to split into or give off scale, laminae or body cells”. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) offers a more straightforward definition of exfoliation that is skin specific: Exfoliation is the process of removing the topmost layer of dead skin cells.1 According to the AAD, this process offers multiple benefits:
- Exfoliation can leave the skin looking brighter
- It can improve the effectiveness of topical skin treatments, which are able to penetrate deeper once the topmost layer of skin is removed
- Long term use can increase collagen production resulting in younger looking skin
Indeed, skin care professionals have long touted the virtues of exfoliation, generally advising the practice to improve skin appearance. Various methods can accomplish exfoliation, which can be categorized either as mechanical or chemical.
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Mechanical exfoliation
Mechanical means can employ the use of tools such as brushes, pumice stones or electronic devices, or products that are formulated with abrasives. When considering an abrasive for development of an exfoliating product, the formulator has a wide array of options from which to choose.
Typically the type of abrasive selected will depend on the body part being targeted. Coarser, more aggressive materials are generally used in products meant for the body, while options that deliver a more gentle effect are reserved for facial applications.
Structure and particle size should also be a consideration in the selection process. Sugar and salts, such as magnesium sulfate and sodium chloride, are used extensively as exfoliants, as are the grounded pits and shells of various fruits and nuts.
Powders derived from walnut, almond and apricot are commercially available in different particle sizes. Walnut Exfoliator 1000, Actiscrub® Almond and Actiscrub Apricot Shell are three such examples that are listed on Prospector.
An added benefit of using these exfoliants is that they can fully support an “all natural” marketing claim. Hydrated Silica, exemplified by SIPERNAT® 2200 PC, is yet another natural abrasive that is often used in exfoliating products.
Alternatives to polyethylene-based exfoliants have become more commonplace within the industry, since a ban was placed on the manufacture and use of plastic micro-beads. These polyethylene-free products fall within different chemical classes and are often marketed as eco-friendly, biodegradable and natural. Examples include:
- The cellulosic VITACEL® and VIVAPUR® series
- Hydrogenated castor oils such as Ecomyx Beads 1640 and the Naturescrub® series
- Jojoba Spheres™ and Jojoba Wax beads derived from hydrogenated jojoba oil
- ParaNatural™ Bamboo, plant-derived from Bamboo stems
Chemical exfoliation
Exfoliation by chemical means is often achieved with the use of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), glycolic and lactic acids being the most commonly used in cosmetic products. These AHAs are potent and effective exfoliants that are frequently used to substantiate anti-aging claims.
Given their potency, guidelines have been issued for their appropriate use in OTC products and professional settings. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review conducted a comprehensive review, and published the results in the report “Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics.”2 Further guidance is available from the FDA’s document, “Guidance for Industry: Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids.”3
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), most often represented by salicylic acid, are also effective exfoliants but are not as prevalent as AHAs in cosmetic products.
Exfoliants can be incorporated into a variety of product bases and are used in multiple product categories. Soap bars, scrubs, creams, cleansers and serums are but a few of the product forms generally used to deliver these ingredients. Whether by chemical or mechanical means, when used properly, an exfoliating product can have a beneficial effect on the overall appearance of skin.
References:
- American Academy of Dermatology: Evaluate before you exfoliate
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review: Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics [PDF]
- FDA: Guidance for Industry: Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids
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Este artículo me pareció muy interesante para nuestro proyecto.
Estamos buscando materiales para el desarrollo de shampoo, crema, exfoliantes, limpiadores bifásicos, desodorantes, gel corporal VERDES.
I’ve always been insecure about my dry skin, which is why I’m thinking of trying the Aqua Dermabrasion because this will help get rid of the dead skin cells. Well, thank you for explaining here that exfoliation is beneficial in terms of leaving the skin look brighter. I also never knew that this will help increase the production of collagen.