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Principles of Good Formulation Development

Posted on August 22, 2014 by George Deckner — 1 comment

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When it comes time to formulate, there are a host of formulationSMusedifferent steps and processes to keep in mind. The list below highlights principles to follow so that your formulation  excels and your customers reap the benefits. 

1. Formulations must be cosmetically appealing and delight the consumer.

2. When beginning a project, put together a formulation strategy outlining the various approaches you are considering along with a technical rationale.

3. Optimum formulation performance is always a series of trade-offs between product aesthetics, safety, stability, processing, and cost.

4. Don’t fall in love with technology, fall in love with consumer benefits. Creating product stories is easy when you’re delivering real benefits.

5. Make important formulation choices up front, keeping the end in mind.

6. Don’t develop technology in a vacuum. Always benchmark against the best formulations available.

7. The hallmark of great formulations is simplicity created by the use of multifunctional ingredients.

8. Always identify the show-stopping issues up front.

9. Use chelants and antioxidants in all formulations as an insurance policy to improve stability.

10. Manage risk by having multiple options (Don’t put all your eggs in one basket).

11. Start stability testing as early as possible on multiple options.

12. Always do your final stability testing in the package you will market.

13. Product viscosity at 40° or 45°C is an excellent predictor of long term emulsion heat stability.

14. Understand global regulations/restrictions regarding ingredient use.

15. Only use non-globally approved materials if the magnitude of the benefit warrants the effort.

16. Evaluate in-house raw materials first before qualifying new materials. This is especially true for excipient materials like emulsifiers, emollients, and thickeners.

17. Order of addition of ingredients can have a profound effect on process and stability.

18. Beware of the legal paper trail. Don’t speculate in areas outside of your area of expertise in writing.

19. Never kill technology because of cost.

20. Do a freedom to practice review early on your project to avoid running into patents issues.

21. Always understand the chemistry of the materials you are using. Avoid chemical interactions in the formulation as much as possible. Most cosmetic raw materials are mixtures of ingredients. The impurities and minor components often can affect product performance more than the major component.

22. Develop specifications for raw materials that are predictive of performance in product. This is especially important for thickeners and emulsifiers

 

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

One Response to “Principles of Good Formulation Development”

  1. Christopher Barboza says:
    September 5, 2014 at 8:29 am

    George,
    I enjoy your articles and religiously shre them within our organization in atempts to strengthen our product offerings and to enhance the development process and stabilize exisiting formulations.
    i have searched my vocabulary for the appropriate accolade to describe the George Deckner i have grown to know and i think this one describes you the best “You da man!”
    Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

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