Share this article:     

A hair conditioner is a product used to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce hair friction allowing for easier brushing or combing. Other claimed benefits include:

• improved shine
• softness
• reduced frizz and fly aways
• anti-static
• strengthening/reduced breakage
• a reduction in split-ends

---

Working on the next great conditioner?

Prospector can help with your ingredient research – find data sheets, and request samples, pricing, and technical advice, all in one place!

Create your free account now!

---

Conditioners are available in a wide variety of forms including gels, creams as well as thin lotions and sprays. Hair conditioners are usually used after hair has been washed with shampoo. They are applied and worked into the hair and may either be washed out or left in (1).

The perfumer Édouard Pinaud is credited for developing the first modern hair conditioner in the early 1900s which he presented at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. His product was intended to soften men’s hair, including beards and mustaches (2).

Types of conditioners

The different types of conditioners available include instant conditioners, deep conditioners, and leave in conditioners.

• Instant conditioners are the most common type. They are applied shortly after shampooing and are rinsed out.
• Deep conditioners are more concentrated and contain similar ingredients found in instant conditioners. Deep conditioners are meant to remain on the hair for at least twenty minutes before rinsing. They are good for treating long hair with rough, dry ends, hair that tangles easily, and hair that has a lot of breakage.
• Leave in hair conditioners are applied to shampooed, towel-dried hair, and are meant to remain on hair until the next washing. Leave in conditioners are excellent for restoring hair damage caused by frequent perming, straightening, curling, or dyeing (3,4).

The typical hair conditioner is comprised of:

• Deionized water
• Humectants (0-2%)
• Cationic conditioning agent/emulsifier (1-4% active)
• Fatty alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate (1-7%)
• Fragrance (.1-.5%)
• Preservative (up to 1% depending on the type of preservative used)
• Emollient (0-2%)

The majority of instant, deep, and leave in hair conditioners sold globally are lamellar gel network (LGN) based oil in water formulations using a cationic surfactant to swell fatty alcohols. LGNs are combinations of low and high hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) surfactants that can thicken water and shear thin when applied to hair. LGN bilayered structures can easily slide toward each other to provide a slippery, smooth feel to hair during use. The LGN structure is critical for:

• Thickening and stabilizing the formulation
• Increasing cationic surfactant, fragrance, and emollient deposition
• Helping to disperse/stabilize emollient oils
• Provide a wet/slippery/smooth feel during application
• Provide wet detangling and dry conditioning
• Reduced hair friction and static charge.

Factors affecting cationic LGN performance

• Total surfactant Concentration (low plus high HLB surfactant) effects both viscosity and the conditioning properties
• Ratio of high HLB to total surfactant has a significant impact on viscosity and the conditioning properties. For optimum conditioning this ratio should be ~30%.
• Chain length of low and high HLB surfactants. The best low HLB surfactants are Cetyl, Stearyl, and Behenyl alcohols. The best high HLB cationic surfactants are Stearamidopropylamine (SAPDMA-neutralized), Behenyltrimonium Chloride (BTMAC). Combinations of SAPDMA and BTMAC are also used
• The use of electrolytes should be minimized since they can negatively impact viscosity and stability.
• Fragrances can significantly reduce viscosity and high temperature stability
• The level and type of preservative, especially solvent type (benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2 Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin). These normally significantly reduce viscosity and can impact high temperature stability.
• Branched/unsaturated fatty acids, alcohols can negatively impact viscosity and stability.
• Presence of polymers can impact viscosity and stability
• LGN based formulations are very processing sensitive. The type of shear, when the shear is applied, the cooling rate, and order of addition of ingredients are all important.

Conditioner formulation trends/new technology

• Silicone free conditioning
  • Quaternium 100 improves the conditioning performance of BTMAC based conditioners
  • PPG3 Caprylyl Ether
  • Polyester-11
  • Natural oils are hot (Argan oil as a conceptual ingredient)
• Use of more natural, sustainable ingredients
• Conditioners for dyed hair to increase color fastness
• Using a conditioner before shampooing can provide better conditioning and hair volume versus post shampooing use.

Marketed instant hair conditioning products

The top selling products have similar conditioning performance mostly differentiated by packaging, fragrance, and conceptual ingredients.

• The top selling products use Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl, and Stearyl alcohol as low HLB surfactants and SAPDMA, BTMAC as high HLB emulsifier/conditioning agents. Hydrolyzed proteins are also commonly used as conditioning agents.
• Emollients used include Amodimethicone, Bis Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Cetyl esters, Avocado oil, Soybean oil, Coconut oil, Argan oil (as a conceptual ingredient)

Amazon top-rated hair conditioners (5 point scale)

• Silk18 Natural Hair Conditioner (4.3/5, 7582 ratings) – Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phytokeratin
• Hydrating Argan Oil Hair Mask and Deep Conditioner By Arvazallia for Dry or Damaged Hair (4.4/5, 4130 ratings) – Cetearyl Alcohol, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone
• ArtNaturals Argan Oil Hair Mask (4.4/5, 3014 ratings) – Quaternium-91, Behentrimonium Chloride, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Amodimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane

References

1. Wikipedia: Hair conditioner
2. The History of Conditioner. Prell. Retrieved 2016-01-01.
3. Detergents & Soaps: Conditioners
4. Science-y Hair Blog: Deep Conditioning

 

The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author or advertiser, and are not necessarily those of ULProspector.com or UL. The appearance of this content in the UL Prospector Knowledge Center does not constitute an endorsement by UL or its affiliates.

All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced without prior authorization from UL or the content author.

The content has been made available for informational and educational purposes only. While the editors of this site may verify the accuracy of its content from time to time, we assume no responsibility for errors made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor.

UL does not make any representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy, applicability, fitness or completeness of the content. UL does not warrant the performance, effectiveness or applicability of sites listed or linked to in any content.

Share this article:     