This year’s Suppliers’ Day was held on May 15-16 at the Jacob K Javits convention center in New York City. The show is the largest personal care ingredient exhibition in the US and the second largest in the world. This year’s show featured 450 global exhibitors with over 9,000 registered attendees.
Virtually all new ingredients launched this year were natural or naturally-derived. Below are some of my favorite functional ingredient and active technologies that were presented.
- Rheance One (Glycolipids-Evonik) is an exceptionally mild fermentation-produced glycolipid-based nonionic surfactant which claims to produce a dense creamy lather. It is also an effective fragrance solubilizer. Rheance One won a Gold medal for best functional ingredient at the in-cosmetics 2018 trade show.
- Barclear CS (Water, Cellulose, Sodium Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol-Nikkol Chemical/Barnet Products) is a gel that contains 2% phosphated microfibrous Cellulose. 50% Barclear CS has a viscosity of ~28k cps and can produce clear gels. Barclear (called Aurovisco CS outside of US) won the Silver medal for best functional ingredient at the In Cosmetics 2018 trade show.
- Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester (Polyglyceryl 10 Caprylate/Caprate-Lonza) is a nonionic polyglceryl ester that produces a flash foam similar to Decyl Glucoside. It is exceptionally mild with a very low dynamic surface tension of 30 mN at .1% vs 40mN for .1% Decyl Glucoside, suggesting application as a fragrance solubilizer and high internal phase oil-in-water emulsifier.
- Covabead Crystal (Calcium Sodium Borosilicate-Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) is a 9-13-micron particle designed to help protect skin against light damage. It protects against Blue Light (High Energy Visible Light) while at the same time boosting SPF provided by mineral and organic filters. It also has a soft focus effect and helps keep eyelashes separated when used in a mascara.
- Barcril AV (Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer 2 and Water-Barnet Products) is a water-absorbing polymer which has a soft focus, wrinkle-blurring effect when applied to skin. It can absorb up to 24X its weight in water and swell up to ~40 microns. Unlike Carbomer gels, Barcril AV gels increase hydration and leave a soft powdery skin feel. A 5% hydrogel has a water break on application and has a non-tacky feel with a matte, soft focus appearance on skin.
- Isolan 17 (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (and) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate-Evonik) is a vegetable-based water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier that can produce soft creams, quick-breaking emulsions, aerosols, and sprays. Its high molecular weight promotes best-in-class stabilization comparable to silicone emulsifiers.
- PolyAquol OS2 (Polyglyceryl 2 Oleate, and Polyhydroystearic acid, and Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate-Innovacos) is a globally-approved water-in-oil emulsifier that makes very stable emulsions versus leading competitive water-in-oil emulsifiers. It also has excellent pigment-dispersing properties.
- DMAMP ULTRA PC (Dimethylamino Methylpropanol-Angus Chemical) is an alternative to commonly used hair dye alkalizing agents, such as monoethanolamine (MEA) and ammonia. When compared to commercial and formulated systems that use the same chassis but with alkalizing agents like MEA and ammonia, hair color formulations using DMAMP ULTRA PC showed superior color deposition and improved wash fastness on bleached hair, especially in red and black shades. It also performed better on gray coverage, maintaining the color even after 15 washes.
- Barsoft TXM (PPG-24 Glycereth-24-Barnet Products/Nikkol Chemical) is a propoxylated, ethoxylated Glycerin that significantly improves the skin-hydrating properties when combined with Glycerin versus Glycerin alone. It also reduces the tackiness of the Glycerin and has improved Stratum Cornium penetration versus Glycerin.
- Agri-Pure High Oleic Acid Vegetable Oils (Cargil) are high Oleic acid containing vegetable oils which are more oxidative-stable versus conventional grades. Currently Cargil sells high Oleic versions of Soybean, Canola and Sunflower oil.
- Brontide (Butylene Glycol-Genomatica/Azelis) is naturally fermentation-produced source of Butylene Glycol.
- Evo-100-NF/FCC Propylene Glycol (Propylene Glycol-ADM) is a naturally-derived Propylene Glycol produced by reacting vegetable-derived Glycerin with Hydrogen.
- Bionorm (Water, Glycerin, Tilia Tomentosa Bud Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric acid-McKinley Resources) was shown to significantly increase hair volume (466%) when used in a shampoo at 2% after 5 washing cycles.
- Entrada WAX 51 and 68 (Advonex International) are high-purity, long chained hydrocarbons derived from natural plant oils. They are the first plant-derived hydrocarbon waxes on the market. Grades are available with melting points of 51° and 68°
View all functionals in Prospector
- MossCellTec No. 1 (Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Water (aqua) – Mibelle AG Biochemistry) won the Gold medal for best active ingredient at the In Cosmetics 2018 trade show. MossCellTec No. 1 strengthens skin against urban aggressions and climatic changes, improves the hydration, barrier and uniformity of skin after just two weeks. MossCellTec No. 1 is the first active ingredient produced by biotech from moss.
- Seboclear MP (Propanediol (and) Bioflavonoids-Rahn) claims to selectively inhibit P. acnes in the skin microbiota. It also has been shown to reduce skin oiliness, inflamed blemishes, and increase skin microbiological diversity. Seboclear MP won the Silver medal for best active ingredient at the in-cosmetics 2018 trade show.
- Synoxyl AZ (Acetyl Zingerone-Sytheon) claims to be a free radical quencher, antioxidant, and selective chelator. I believe in the future all-day-wear SPF products will contain quencher technology that prevents the formation of free radicals, neutralizes free radicals, and helps repair damage caused by free radicals.
- Greyverse (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 20-Lucas Meyer) claims to stimulate hair pigmentation and reverse hair graying by stimulating melanin synthesis and transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It works by increasing catalase activity and reducing the concentration of localized hydrogen peroxide. This is the first active I have seen that claims to reduce hair graying.
- AgeCap Smooth Cosmetic Ingredient (Dow Chemical) is a novel, patented technology that selectively traps Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) to avert their damaging effects. As it reacts in a passive way with ROS, it helps enhance antioxidant efficiency of conventional antioxidants.
- SymControl Care (Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Tetraselmis Suesica Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid-Symrise) is an oil-control/ barrier-enhancing ingredient that works by a novel mechanism of reducing COX 2 gene expression. 2% was shown to reduce skin surface sebum by 31% after four weeks versus 12% for the positive control (2% Niacinamide/1% D Panthenol). 1% was shown to reduce skin surface sebum by 31% after one week versus 33% for the positive control (2% Niacinamide/1% D Panthenol).
- SymGuard CD (Phenylpropanol, o-Cymen-5-ol, Decylene Glycol–Symrise) is a synergistic preservative blend that also has antioxidant activity. Fast gram-negative kill rate (>4 log) was demonstrated from a bar soap at 30 seconds using .5% SymGuard CD.
- RevCare MC (Zinc Itaconate-Itaconix/Actera) is a natural-based polymeric deodorant used to neutralize odors caused by hydrogen sulfide, mercaptans, thioethers, Isovaleric acid and Ammonia.
- Microsilver BG is a 10 micron porous Silver made by a fumed process. It has excellent antimicrobial properties and is extensively used in Europe in deodorants, as well as products for Atopic Dermatitis, diaper rash, and wound care. The product is very stable and doesn’t penetrate skin. Use level is ~.1%. It is one of the best all-natural preservatives available.
- Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide (NAD) (Lalilab) is identical with natural NAD in the body, a great energy story.
View all active ingredients in Prospector
Other products launched at NYSCC 2018
- BASF Replexium [PDF]
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