Each year I summarize some of the best new active and excipient formulation technologies that I have identified. Natural-based, sustainable ingredients continue to be a hot area for new active and excipient ingredient development.
Best Personal Care Excipients
- Exilva (Cellulose-Borregaard) is a microfibrillated cellulose that forms a 3D network in water. It also provides a soft focus and matt effect on skin. A 1% gel in water has a viscosity of 8600 cps (2% 21,600 cps), with 10% Sodium Chloride 10,000 cps, and with 50% Ethanol 13,200 cps. It provides significant yield value to thin formulation, while promoting a good spray pattern. This is an excellent globally approved, high value added, natural based thickening agent worth evaluating.
- Betafib® MCF (Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, 20% active-Royal Cosun Biobased Products) is a microfibrillated cellulose with similar properties to Exilva.
- Sorbithix L-100 (Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Sorbitan Laurate-Applechem) is a very efficient shampoo thickener, especially for sulfate free formulations.
- EstoGel® (Polymer Expert) is an innovative oil thickening agent, 90 percent bio sourced from castor oil. The clear oil gels made with Estogel are thixotropic with excellent suspending properties.
- Pemulen™ EZ 4U (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Lubrizol) is an easy-to-disperse polymeric emulsifier that can emulsify up to 50 percent oil over a pH range of 4-9. It also provides a light sensorial profile.
- Siligel™ (Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) is a natural gelling agent that claims to provide a silicone-like skin feel. Siligel is easy to use (cold process, no pre-dispersion) and has an exceptional electrolyte tolerance (up to 20% NaCl). A 1% gel has a viscosity of 4600 cps vs 5200 cps in seawater.
- SurfaThix™ N Polymer (Acrylates Copolymer, Water-Ashland, 30% solids) is a thickener for shampoos and body washes that has good thickening efficiency and clarity at low pH.
- NatSurFact® 50HCCB-4 (Sodium Rhamolipids-Logos Technologies, 50% solids) is a mild, anionic natural surfactant produced enzymatically from Soy bean oil. It also is high foaming surfactant with a very low critical micelle concentration (CMC).
- Helical Network Emulsion Technology (H-NET) (Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, arginine, Maltitol-Technoble) is a natural based oil in water, globally-approved emulsifier. Two percent can emulsify 20% oil using high shear without needing any coemulsifiers.
- FiberHance™ bm solution (Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide-Ashland) claims to strengthen hair by penetrating into the internal keratin structure. This provides improved strengthening up to three times that of untreated hair and improved manageability back to that of undamaged hair. It won the Gold Award for best excipient at the 2017 in-cosmetics show in Europe.
- ClariSilk™ (Polyester 11-Inolex) is a polymeric hair conditioner that improves lather, reduces static charge, and improves combing/detangling. It also enables the formulation of high-performing, silicone-free conditioning shampoos.
- Plantasil® 4V (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG/PPG-120/10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate, Glycerin-BASF) provides a significant improvement on wet combing and sensorial performance on different hair types, equivalent to those of silicone-containing benchmarks.
- QUATIN® 350 TQ-D (low charge density)/680 TQ-D (medium charge density)/1280 TQ-D (high charge density) (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin-Cosun Biobased Products) all offer superior deposition versus cationic cellulose from shampoos.
- Maxigloss Plus (Octyldodecanol (and) Ethylcellulose (and) Isostearyl alcohol (and) Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl alcohol-Vantage Specialty Ingredients) provides moisturizing and improved payoff/wear/shine properties to lip products. Lips treated with Maxigloss demonstrated significantly less cracking, less irritation, and greater softness than control formulations.
- KoboBlur™ 100 Natural (Silica (and) Cellulose (and) Mica (and) Barium Sulfate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Jojoba Esters-Kobo Products) is an 8-micron, soft focus natural particle blend. In vitro tests exhibited the same soft focus effect regardless of the media into which it was dispersed. KoboBlur performed well in panel testing for its ability to hide skin imperfections while having a good skin feel.
- SilForm™ HyFlex (Hybrid silicone-organic acrylate-Momentive Performance Materials) forms a flexible and water resistant film with excellent mechanical strength and elasticity. This multifunctional ingredient enables development of comfortable long-wear foundations and smudge resistance mascaras.
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Best Personal Care Actives
- AvoBrite™ (Acrylates Copolymer-Hallstar) is a globally-approved photostabizer for Avobenzone that also increases SPF and the wash resistance of formulations.
- TEGO® Turmerone (Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract-Evonik Industries AG Personal Care) is a fraction of turmeric oil extracted by supercritical carbon dioxide. It has been shown to significantly lighten skin and improve skin tone/radiance when used at .5% for 8 weeks.
- Micah (Hallstar) is a free radical quencher that, unlike antioxidants which neutralize free radicals, suppresses their formation. A very interesting technology.
- PASSIOLINE® (Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil-Laboratoires Expanscience): A molecularly distilled Passion fruit oil that claims to repair, remodel, and soothe damaged skin. It won the Gold Award for best active at the 2017 in-cosmetics show in Europe.
- Gatuline® Link n Lift (Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum extract-Gattefosse) was developed specifically to treat the tear trough wrinkles under the eye area (17 percent reduction after 56 days). Of interest were the before and after treatment 3D models that were made using a printer and the clinical image analysis data files. A very clever idea for dramatizing the results in a way you can see and touch. This won the Silver for best active at the in-cosmetics 2017 show.
- MINIPORYL™ (Isopentyldiol (and) Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) is a 2% cream that reduced sebum by 30 percent and pores by 16 percent vs placebo after 30 days. MINIPORYL also received a 2017 Global Beauty Industry gold award.
- Pinolumin (Pinus Cembra Wood Extract, Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Aqua/Water-Mibelle) claims to block the TRPV1 receptor which is overexpressed in sensitive skin. A formulation containing 2% Pinolumin was shown to reduce skin redness by 25 percent after 28 days and 40 percent after 40 days. It also improved skin color uniformity.
- SensAmone P5 (Pentapeptide-59 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Phenylethyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water-Mibelle) is a pentapeptide that inhibits TRPV1 and helps reduce skin sensitivity.
- TEGO® Pep 4-Comfort (Glycerin (and) water (and) Tetrapeptide-63 acetate-Evonik Industries AG Personal Care) is an anti-redness, anti-irritant tetrapeptide that relieves symptoms of sensitive skin. A clinical demonstrated redness and itching was reduced by 70 percent and burning by 56 percent.
- PANTROFINA® Skin 360 (Diglycerin (and) Pinus Pinaster Extract-Kinetik) is a cream containing .5% PANTROFINA that was shown to reduce sebum by 37 percent after 56 days.
- KARASUN™ SC 50 Concentrated (Pongamia Seed Oil-BioSynthis) contains 7-10% Pongamol, a natural photostable UVA sunscreen structurally similar to Avobenzone.
- MelinOIL™ (Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Lecithin (and) Water (and) Acetyl Hexapeptide-1-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) is an oil soluble form of a α-MSH biomimetic peptide designed to protect cells from UV damage and premature aging. It was clinically shown to increase skin pigmentation by 54 percent after four days versus placebo and significantly increase minimal erythema response (MED).
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2 Responses to “Let’s Get Technical: Best Personal Care Formulation Technology of 2017”
Im having a problem while making of the Dry shampoo , Im using powder valves/actuators for this product but it gets leaked within a day or so.’pl suggest
my second query is regarding a temporary hair color spray(aerosol).what thickener /ingredient should I add to give a proper texture ?
Perfect article and inspirational as always ! (its karaNsun sc 50)