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Oil in Water Nano-emulsions

Posted on July 11, 2014 by George Deckner — 6 comments

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Typically characterized by their clear or oilinwaterSMbluish/translucent appearance, oil in water nano-emulsions are water continuous colloidal dispersions that have a particle size distribution of around 20-200 nm. These nano-emulsions are very stable to creaming due to Brownian motion.

Nano-emulsions can be formed by using either low or high energy processes. The phase inversion temperature (PIT) method is a low-energy process based on the changes in solubility of polyoxyethylene (EU) type of nonionic surfactants with temperature. These surfactants become lipophilic with increasing temperature because of dehydration of the polyoxyethylene chains. PIT emulsification takes advantage of the extremely low interfacial tensions achieved at inversion temperature. Above this temperature, a water in oil emulsion is formed which becomes a bicontinuous emulsion at the inversion temperature and an oil in water nano-emulsion below.

D phase emulsification is a low-energy process to make nano-emulsions that involves mixing a surfactant with a polyol (EU) or with a polyol and a small amount of water. Oil is then added and a gel is typically formed (oil in polyol-water emulsion). When additional water is added, an oil in water nano-emulsion is formed. Heating both phases prior to mixing helps promote a smaller particle size due to a lowering of the interfacial tension. The likely mechanism is the formation before dilution of a lamellar liquid crystalline phase.

High-energy approaches use equipment capable of generating intense disruptive forces to break up the oil phases. The most widely used include high-pressure valve homogenizers, micro-fluidizers, and sonication methods. Generally, conventional high-pressure homogenizers work in a range of pressures between 50 and 100 MPa.

Applications

  • Stable thin emulsions for sprays or wipes
  • Improved active skin penetration
  • Improved deposition of emollients in rinse off products

Commercial technologies

  • Nanocream (15%-Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids, 25%-Palm Glycerides, 20%-Capryloyl Glycine, 40%-Water-Sinerga)
    o Using 10% different oils and 5% Nanocream emulsions with a particle size of 120-320nm were produced.
    o Using 10% Coco Caprylate/Caprate and 2.5-10% Nanocream the particle size ranged between 120-250nm.
    o Cold mix 5% Nanocream and 10% oil and heat to 40-45C. Start heating until the mixture forms a homogeneous clear phase. Heat 25-30% (w/w) of water to the same temperature. Slowly add small increments of water phase to the mixture until a viscous gel is obtained. The formation of bluish color is typical of the nano particle size droplets and must be obtained in this step. Mix at least for 5 minutes again. Add the remaining water phase and continue stirring for 5-6 minutes.
  • Sucrose C1215L (Sucrose Laurate-Mitsubishi-Kagaku Foods)
    o 20% C1215L is dissolved using 30% glycerin and heated to 75C. 50% oil is heated to 75C and is slowly added to the glycerin/surfactant. A nano emulsion will form on water dilution.
  • Tego Wipe DE PF (EU) (Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate; Phenoxyethanol, Dilauryl Citrate-Evonik (EU))
    o Forms a nano-emulsion when diluted with water.
  • Expired patent US 5362418 (Kao-11/8/94) claims a gel-like oil in water concentrated emulsion can be prepared by adding an oil to a mixture of a monoalkyl phosphate salt, polyhydric alcohol and water. Very fine oil in water emulsions can be formed with very little surfactant and without high shear by diluting the gel (50nm particle size-3 to1 ratio oil to surfactant, 265 nm-350 to 1 ratio) with water. The lead surfactant was a high mono myristyl phosphate neutralized using arginine dissolved in glycerin/water. This is a very useful technology for making nano emulsions. High mono alkyl phosphates are commercially available.

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

6 Responses to “Oil in Water Nano-emulsions”

  1. Reimar C. Bruening says:
    July 15, 2014 at 10:22 am

    Excellent article: thank you! However, I missed mentioning the lecithin-based systems as popularized by Dr. Lautenschläger in Germany, especially, since they open the technology to the formulation of all-natural nano-cosmetics.

  2. Irwin Palefsky says:
    July 16, 2014 at 1:38 pm

    Great Article George! Our Formulation Chemists need to make sure they know about the chemistry of what they are doing!!

  3. Geng Wang says:
    July 17, 2014 at 1:04 pm

    Thank you George for the article. Just one question: To be able to accommodate the high viscosity and gel-alike intermediate, you may need a very efficient and powerful mixing system in industrial scae. What kind of kettle system you recommand to do so?

  4. Whitney Black says:
    July 21, 2014 at 9:27 am

    Geng,

    These types of emulsions are easy to mix with standard counter rotating mixers used in emulsion processing. I have successfully scaled up numerous nano emulsions without any issues.

    George

  5. Iva says:
    July 29, 2015 at 4:13 pm

    Excellent Article! Thank you very much.
    Dear Geng Wang,
    You could also use this system for making emulsions on industrial scale and can accommodate various viscosity values:
    http://sonomechanics.com/products_services/3000_w_industrial-scale_processor/
    There is also bench and lab scale ultrasonic systems available.

  6. Iva says:
    July 29, 2015 at 4:14 pm

    Dear Geng Wang,
    You could also use this system for making emulsions on industrial scale and can accommodate various viscosity values:
    http://sonomechanics.com/products_services/3000_w_industrial-scale_processor/
    There is also bench and lab scale ultrasonic systems available.

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