The benefits of peptides in skin care products are broadly known and have been well documented in various literary formats. However, clinical substantiation of these benefits is not always provided – at a great disadvantage and inconvenience to the researcher. It is the objective of this article to provide the reader with examples of skin peptides that are frequently used in personal care, and the associated clinical data that is available on Prospector.
A Brief Review
Peptides are molecules that contain two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds. Their nomenclature is derived from the number of amino acids in the chain. For example, dipeptides contain two amino acids; tripeptides three; tetrapeptides four, etc.
Although the terms peptides and proteins are sometimes used interchangeably, the key differentiator is the number of amino acids in their chains. Peptides are shorter chains of amino acids, while proteins are larger, more complex molecules consisting of one or more polypeptides. Peptides play an important part in rebuilding collagen, which degrades as we age, resulting in sagging and wrinkled skin. Because of this function, these molecules are heralded in the anti-aging market with claims such as:
- “Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles.”
- “Improves skin elasticity.”
- “Activates collagen production, stimulates repair and renewal mechanisms of the skin.”
Peptide Technologies and Resources
Many approaches have been adopted with peptide technology to provide these benefits topically. For example:
- Topical application of Hexapeptide-11 has been shown to improve skin firmness after four weeks of treatment: Peptamide-6: A Natural Firming Hexapeptide.
Utilizing peptide technology, the assault on aging has ventured beyond the traditional approach of boosting collagen and elastin.
- Hexapeptide-33 which has been shown to have a skin whitening effect and assist in wound healing and wrinkle reduction among other benefits: W3 Peptide
- Products that boost synthesis of Coenzyme Q10 – an antioxidant that combats premature aging. Pentapeptide-34 trifluoroacetate is an ingredient that was developed to deliver this benefit: Peptide Q10 Biofunctional.
- Peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 that fall within the emerging class of ‘neurocosmetics’, which are claimed to address cosmetic issues via the cutaneous nervous system: Neutrazen data sheet.
- Another peptide that falls within this class is an aqueous solution of Acetyl Hexapeptide -8, which has been described as “the topical alternative to botulinum toxin A” and has been shown to reduce the appearance of expression wrinkles: Argireline: The First Peptide for Expression Wrinkles.
Undoubtedly, peptides are exciting materials that play a prominent role in skin care. However, as with all actives, the formulator must ensure that these ingredients are formulated under optimal conditions to deliver the best results.
The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author, and are not necessarily those of UL, ULProspector.com or Knowledge.ULProspector.com. While the editors of this site make every effort to verify the accuracy of its content, we assume no responsibility for errors made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor. All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced without prior authorization from Prospector.