This year’s New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day was held on May 2-3 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. After many years at the Raritan Center in Edison, New Jersey, the show needed to expand to larger venue to assure future growth.
The show is the largest personal care ingredient exhibition in the US and the second largest in the world. This year’s show featured 450 global exhibitors with over 9,000 registered attendees.
Below are some of my favorite excipient technologies presented at the show. My choice for the best excipient ingredients were FiberHance bm, Micah, and Hest PGFA.
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- fiberHance bm solution (Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide-Ashland) claims to strengthen hair by penetrating into the internal keratin structure. This provides improved strengthening up to three times that of untreated hair and improved manageability back to that of undamaged hair. It won the gold award for best excipient at the 2017 in-cosmetics show in Europe.
- Micah (Hallstar) is a free radical quencher that can prevent the formation of free radicals.
- Current sunscreens offer only partial prevention against reactive Oxygen species (ROS) formed by UVA and no protection against those formed by visible light and Infrared.
- Antioxidants neutralize free radicals once formed and can quickly become consumed. Free radical quenchers can also stabilize UV sensitive actives like Retinol and Avobenzone.
- Micah received a silver award for best excipient at the 2017 in-cosmetics show in Europe.
- Silsoft E-Pearl Emulsion (water, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Cetearyl Methicone, PEG 40-Stearate, Steareth-2, Steareth-21-Momentive Performance Materials, 57% solids) is a water-based dispersion containing a silicone elastomer powder, high molecular weight (MW) Dimethicone, and silicone wax designed for use in water-based products that provides soft focus and skin feel benefits. It also received a 2017 Global Beauty Industry gold award for best sensory ingredient.
- Silform HyFlex Emulsion (Bis-Ethylhydroxycyclhexyl Methacrylate Dimethicone/Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Momentive Performance Materials, 25% solids) is a flexible film forming polymer for formulating long wear, transfer resistant color cosmetics with good sensory properties.
- HydraSynol IDL (Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate-Sytheon): a 12-week clinical using a lotion containing 3% HydraSynol demonstrated a significant improvement in reduced skin roughness, dryness, elasticity, fine lines, erythema, radiance, plus improved skin tone and eye appearance.
- Maxigloss Plus (Octyldodecanol, Ethyl Cellulose, Isostearyl alcohol, Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl alcohol-Vantage Specialty Ingredients) provides moisturizing and improved payoff/wear/shine properties to lip products. Lips treated with Maxigloss demonstrated significantly less cracking, less irritation, and greater softness than control formulations.
- ClariSilk (Polyester 11-Inolex) is a polymeric hair conditioner that improves lather, reduces static charge, and improves combing/detangling. It also enables the formulation of high performing silicone-free conditioning shampoos.
- Neossance Hemisqualane (C13-15 Alkane-Centerchem Inc.) is a plant-derived non-polar C13-15 hydrocarbon. It is a good natural alternative for petroleum-based paraffins and silicone ingredients. It is a nonvolatile, non-comedogenic, high spreading, light, dry feeling emollient.
- Exilva (Cellulose-Borregard) is a microfibrillated cellulose that forms a 3D network in water. It also provides a soft focus and matte effect on skin.
- A 1% gel in water has a viscosity of 8600 cps (2% 21,600 cps), with 10% Sodium Chloride 10,000 cps, and with 50% Ethanol 13,200 cps.
- It provides significant yield value to thin formulation, while promoting a good spray pattern.
- This is an excellent globally approved, high value-added, natural-based thickening agent worth evaluating.
- ChromoHance 113 Polymer (Polyquaternium 113-Ashland) is a high charge density cationic terpolymer, which has been shown to provide significant improvement in color fastness by restoring the hydrophobicity of hair (damaged hair is very hydrophilic).
- Pemulen EZ 4U (Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Lubrizol) is an easy to disperse polymeric emulsifier, thickener that can emulsify up to 50 percent oil over a pH range of 4-9. It also provides a light sensorial profile.
- WorleeAqua Thix 200 (Acrylates Copolymer-Worlee Chemie, 32% solids) is a thickener for surfactant based products that has excellent clarity and particle stabilizing properties when neutralized. It can be used at a pH of 4-9.
- Imercare Opaque (Kaolin-Imerys) is a .6 micron natural-based opacifying agent. It also is not pH or ionic-surfactant sensitive. It provides an opaque effect to beauty care gels, body washes or shampoos.
- Natsurfact 50HCCB-4 (Sodium Rhamolipids-Logos Technologies, 50% solids) is a mild, anionic natural surfactant produced enzymatically from soy bean oil. It also is high foaming with a very low critical micelle concentration (CMC).
- Cargill is a large food ingredient company that has set up a division to sell into the personal care industry. Interesting ingredients they sell include:
- Actigum CS11 QD, a quick dispersing grade of Scleroglucan. Scleroglucan is a food grade fermentation polymer that is nonionic, acid stable, and provides excellent heat temperature stability to formulations due to its high yield value. A 1% aqueous solution has a viscosity of 2300-4500 cps making it more efficient than xanthan gum.
- Emulfluid NGM is a Lysolecithin that can as a pigment dispersing agent, moisturizer, and active skin penetration enhancer.
- KoboBlur 100 Natural (Silica, Cellulose, Mica, Barium Sulfate, Titanium Dioxide, Jojoba Esters-Kobo Products) is an 8 micron soft focus natural particle blend. In vitro tests exhibited the same soft focus effect regardless of the media into which it was dispersed. In panel testing, KoboBlur performed well in hiding skin imperfections while having a good skin feel.
- Hest PGFA (Polyalkoxylene Polyester Copolymer-Global Seven) is a new polymeric water-in-oil emulsifier that requires no heat or homogenization. It can produce stable emulsions with an internal phase of 90+% water and viscosities ranging from thin to very viscous.
- Linatural Ultra-1 (Propanediol, Benzyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol- Lincoln Fine Ingredients) is an all-natural preservative blend.
- Linatural Ultra-2 (Phenethyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol-Lincoln Fine Ingredients) is an all-natural preservative blend.
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