NYSCC Suppliers’ Day is the largest personal care ingredient trade show in the US, and it’s a terrific venue to learn about new technology. From natural extracts and natural-based film forming polymers to exfoliating beads and photo stabilizers, this year’s event included a rich variety of new products. I kept track of my favorites and have included them below for you.
Pongamia Extract (Pongamol) by Givaudan
This is a natural extract from Karanja oil obtained from the seeds of the Indian Karanja tree (Pongamia glabra). Pongamia Extract (EU) has a chemical structure similar to Avobenzone (EU) and a similar UV absorption spectrum. It also has been shown to increase SPF and act as an antioxidant.
Sunjin Chemical, distributed by Kobo (EU), has developed an interesting new series of spherical-shaped exfoliating beads based on coating an inorganic substrate with natural-based waxes. The beads are available in a broad range of colors in particle sizes from 100-1000 microns and are very cost effective.
Poly-Soleil (Shellac) by Mantrose-Haeuser
This is a natural based film forming polymer that provides a non-sticky, water-resistant, rub-resistant film on the skin. In sunscreen formulations, Poly-Soleil (EU) has been shown to provide 80 minute wash resistance using .5-3% Poly-Soleil. Formulations have also passed the 4-hour Australian water immersion test using 3% Poly-Soleil. This performance is comparable to the best synthetic waterproofing polymers on the market today.
Aqupec HU C2002 (Bis-Stearyl Peg/PPG-8/6 SMDI/Peg-400 Copolymer) by Sumitomo Seika/Presperse
This product is a nonionic associative thickener that is salt/PH stable and forms clear gels. A 1% dispersion in water has a viscosity of 5-15K cps. It also has an excellent non tacky skin feel.
Synoxyl HSS (Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione) by Sytheon
Synoxyl HSS (EU) is a new photostabilizer that has been shown to significantly outperform Octocrylene (EU) and Oxynex ST (EU) in stabilizing Avobenzone. A prototype containing 2% HSS had an in vivo SPF of 45, versus 30 without Avobenzone 2%, HMS 10%, OS 5%. It has also been shown to be an excellent stabilizer for retinol, natural vitamin E, vanillin and water-soluble organic dyes.
Seppiclear G7 (Heptyl Glucoside, 70-75% solids) by Seppic
Several interesting new green solvents were also introduced:
MinaCare Pentiol Green (Pentylene Glycol) by Minasolve
Haisugarcane BG (1,3 Butylene Glycol-Kokyu Alcohol) by Kogyo Co. Ltd
Jaguar Optima (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Solvay Novecare
Jaguar Optima is a new, lower MW, higher charge density cationic guar developed for low surfactant, silicone and sulfate free formulations. It provides good conditioning on both virgin and color damaged hair and good hair volume /foam.
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