The 29th International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress was held in Orlando, Florida October 30-November 2, 2016. The meeting is held every two years and showcases leading-edge personal care technology from around the world. The congress had over 1700 registered attendees with 58 podium and 312 posters presented. Awards were given for the best basic research, applied research, and poster presentations.
Podium basic research presentations
- “The presence of and consequence of essential and non-essential stratum corneum proteases in barrier impaired skin: the vital need for protease inhibitors”: DSM Nutritional Products won the award for best basic research talk.
- The activities of key serine proteases were shown to be significantly elevated in facial Caucasian stratum corneum (SC), compared to forearm SC and that proteases of the plasminogen system (plasmin and urokinase) are significantly correlated with transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The presence of elevated levels of these inflammatory serine proteases in photodamaged facial SC may result in a thinner tissue compared with other body sites. Enhanced activities of proteases of the plasminogen system in the SC can lead to premature desquamation and abnormal corneocyte maturation. A novel inhibitor of plasmin and urokinase was developed (BSFA-INCI name: Benzylsulfonyl-DSeryl-Homophenylalanine Amidino-Benzylamide Acetate) and shown to be clinically effective at improving the skin barrier function.
- “Subcutaneous tendon cells, a newly discovered player for improving facial sagging,” presented by Pola Chemical Industries.
- Facial sagging was shown to be caused by a deterioration of retinacula cutis (RC), a fibrous network structure in subcutaneous tissue. Histological analysis of the human cheek tissue revealed that RC decreased with aging and that its structure was similar to the tendon. Mimecan, a characteristic component of RC, was shown to decrease along with collagen on aging. This study showed that RC decrease was due to less RC components produced by tendon cell. These results suggest that tendon cells play an important role in maintaining RC structure preventing facial sagging.
- “Enzyme Activity of Cathepsin V. Controls Keratotic Plug Degradation and Reduces Pore Visibility,” presented by Nippon Menard Cosmetic Co.
- Keratotic plugs (KPs) cause enlarged pores which negatively affect the appearance of skin. KPs consist of corneocytes and sebum which accumulate in skin pores. The amount of cysteine protease cathepsin V (CTSV) was shown to be reduced in enlarged pores and the amount of the cell adhesion molecule, comeodesmosin (CDSN), increased in KPs. The results indicate that CTSV controls pore size through the degradation of KP.
Podium applied research presentations
- “Translating the human hair surface state into sound”: L’Oreal won the award for best applied research talk.
- A novel method was developed to convert frictional combing differences of hair due to grooming habits such as shampooing, conditioning, combing, and bleaching into sound by using a manually driven probe sliding along the hair shaft in each direction. The recorded signal can then be translated into sound that can be heard by the human ear.
- “Visualizing NMF distribution across human face -development of a novel Mass Spectrometry Imaging method using tape-stripped stratum corneum,” presented by Shiseido.
- A highly sensitive mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) method was developed that allowed the natural moisturizing factor components across facial skin to be visualized and quantified – a powerful method that can be applied to many other types of ingredients.
- “New Formulation Technique to Promote High-Molecular-Weight (MW) Hyaluronic Acid Penetrating into the Skin Without Injection,” presented by Pola Chemical Industries.
- A novel method was developed to increase the skin penetration of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HA) using high charge density cationic polymers to form charge neutral ion pairs. When the net ionic charge of the complex was 1 or neutral, the smallest particles of ~ 100nm were produced using Diallyldimethylammonium Chloride and Polylysine. The HA/Polysine complex was shown to disassociate when it penetrated skin – an interesting technique that could be applied to help deliver other types of charged actives.
- “Enhanced Efficacy of a Broad-Spectrum SPF 50+ Sunscreen Containing a Vitamin D-Like Compound to Protect Human Skin from UV-Induced DNA Damage,” presented by The University of Sydney.
- Curcumin and Tetrahydrocurcumin were shown to reduce UV-induced DNA damage to a similar extent as the biologically active form of vitamin D, l,25(OH)2D3. When .03% Curcumin was formulated into a SPF 50+ sunscreen, it reduced UV damage significantly more than sunscreen alone.
- “The sweat gland as a breakthrough target for anti-aging skin care. Discovery of novel skin aging mechanism: ‘dermal cavitation’”: Shiseido won the award for best poster.
- A novel micro-computed tomography method based on amplification of structure-associated X-ray absorbance (ASAXA- n CT) was developed which demonstrated sagging skin contained multiple defects filled with adipose tissue (dermal cavitation) in the deep dermal layer of aged skin. Noninvasive ultrasonography of the cheek revealed that dermal cavitation significantly increases skin sagging and was localized at the bottom of eccrine sweat glands. Additional studies demonstrated that sweat glands deteriorate and shrink upwards with aging and secrete matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1). This further degrades the dermal layer, leading to additional skin sagging.
- “Unique Delivery Vehicle for Retinaldehyde To be use in Topical Cosmeric Skin Care Applications: Retinaldehyde y-Cyclodextrin Hemiacetal,” presented by Covalance.
- A stable complex containing Retinaldehyde was made by dissolving in triglyceride and mixing into water/glycol/Gamma Cyclodextrin and spray drying to form an acetal powder (~3.75% RAL). Excellent clinical results were obtained for the complex for wrinkle reduction superior to placebo, Retinol, and Retinaldehyde. A 12 week Melasma study also demonstrated superior results for the complex.
- “Development of Novel sunscreen Application Film: Achieving High UV Protection and Low UV Filter Penetration with Unique Fine Capsules,” presented by Kao.
- A .2 micron sunscreen wax particle/alpha gel was produced using 11% sunscreen, cetyl alcohol 1.2%, glyceryl behenate .8 %, sorbitan distearate 1%, ceresin and paraffin wax. The alpha gel was added to a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate gel had an in vitro SPF of 76.5 (7.0 SPF units/1% sunscreen) versus 25.8 (2.4 SPF units/1% sunscreen) for the sunscreens added to only the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate gel. The sunscreen alpha gel had more uniform sunscreen coverage on skin and less skin penetration vs the sunscreen gel.
Read more trade show recaps here.
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