Share this article:     

The general topic of natural ingredients in cosmetics has been extensively covered in industry literature and forums, as well as various Knowledge Center articles.

If the questions submitted by Prospector members are any indication, the level of interest in the broader topic of “naturals” and the subtopic of natural preservatives in cosmetics remains high. Although natural preservatives were thoroughly discussed in “Natural Preservatives and Colorants,” the present article aims to address some lingering questions on balancing support of a natural concept with efficacy and affordability.

Supporting a Natural Concept

First and foremost, what is the definition of “natural” within personal care? Several authors have addressed this question but the definition offered in “The Challenge of Natural Cosmetics” is worth restating:

Perhaps the biggest challenge is to figure out what your company considers ‘natural.’ There is no single definition and the number of different standards out there is overwhelming. As a formulator, you’ll want to get specific direction on exactly which ingredients you’re allowed to use and which to avoid. If your company doesn’t know, then you should just choose one of the leading natural cosmetic standards and stick with it.”

Getting specific direction from your company or customer cannot be over emphasized as there are varying perceptions among consumers about what makes a product “natural.” Most common is the belief that a “natural” ingredient must be recognizable and not sound “chemical” – which is a viewpoint that your marketing team may want to promote to enhance consumer appeal.

To meet this objective, a formulator can consider products that have been developed as alternatives to synthetic preservatives. Examples of products positioned as “natural” or naturally-derived preservatives include:

• Neopein® by Bio-Botanica:
  • INCI Name: Origanum Vulgare Extract (and) Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Extract (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (and) Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract (and) Hydrastis Canadensis (Goldenseal) Root Extract
• Sharon Biomix Free II Liquid by Acme Hardesty Co.:
  • INCI Name: Phenylpropanol (and) Glycerin (and) Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Aurantium Sinensis Peel Extract (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Lactic Acid (and) Citric Acid (and) Aqua
• MicroCurb™ OC by Kemin:
  • INCI Name: Caprylic Acid (and) Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract
• Natural Preservier™ by Premier Specialities:
  • INCI Name: Water (and) Gluconic Acid (and) Sodium Benzoate

Efficacy

The concern among formulators regarding the effectiveness of natural preservatives in cosmetics is understandable, given their relatively short history of use and body of efficacy data as compared to that available for traditional preservatives. Whether it is natural or synthetic, the basic function of any preservative is to prevent or retard microbial growth in the finished product. As such, ensuring that a product is well preserved is a critical aspect of formula development.

Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) data are usually provided by suppliers and should be carefully reviewed when considering a preservative. While this information can be useful, preservation efficacy testing on the formula being considered for launch would provide the formulator with an understanding of the product’s microbiological integrity.

Affordability

A formulator is often tasked with delivering a product to meet all development objectives within a given budget. While this sometimes could be the most challenging aspect of the development process, the temptation to curtail costs by using less than optimum levels of preservatives should be avoided – for reasons outlined above. If natural preservatives are required to support the overall product concept, but are found to negatively impact cost, and negotiations with the supplier were not fruitful, then further discussions with marketing or the customer may be warranted to establish more realistic cost targets.

Identifying a preservative system that would support a natural product concept might present a challenge but should not necessarily be considered an impossible task. Healthy relationships with suppliers, maintaining an awareness of cross-category technology developments (primarily food and personal care) and keeping an open mind to innovation, can often help illuminate a path to success.

For further reading on natural cosmetics, see:

• The Challenge of Natural Cosmetics
• Formulating with Natural Surfactants
• Natural Preservatives and Colorants 

The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author or advertiser, and are not necessarily those of ULProspector.com or UL. The appearance of this content in the UL Prospector Knowledge Center does not constitute an endorsement by UL or its affiliates.

All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced without prior authorization from UL or the content author.

The content has been made available for informational and educational purposes only. While the editors of this site may verify the accuracy of its content from time to time, we assume no responsibility for errors made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor.

UL does not make any representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy, applicability, fitness or completeness of the content. UL does not warrant the performance, effectiveness or applicability of sites listed or linked to in any content.

Share this article:     