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Ask the Expert: I’m having problems solubilizing avobenzone and oxybenzone…

Posted on April 18, 2014 by George Deckner — 3 comments

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Learn about solubilizing avobenzone and oxybenzone in the Prospector Knowledge Center.Q. I’m having problems solubilizing avobenzone (EU) & oxybenzone (EU) into the oil phase of my emulsion. Do you have any recommendations?

A. Generally this becomes a problem when you’re formulating high SPF products. Liquid sunscreens like homosalate (EU) (avobenzone-19% soluble) and octyl salicylate (EU) (avobenzone-21% soluble) are poor UVB sunscreens but are good solvents for avobenzone and oxybenzone. Octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) (EU) can dissolve up to 26% avobenzone. Also, the presence of multivalent metals can chelate avobenzone and reduce the solubility (zinc and aluminum). A simple way to quickly screen formulations is to make only the oil phase of the formulation and test the samples at low temperatures for crystallization.

Several non-sunscreen emollients to try are:
Isopropyl Lauryl Sarcosinate 
Eldew SL 205 (EU) – Ajinomoto (EU)
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate
Extend 226 – Ashland (EU)
Phenoxycaprylate
Tegosoft XC (EU) – Evonik (EU)
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Finsolv TPP (EU) – Innospec Performance Chemicals (EU)

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

3 Responses to “Ask the Expert: I’m having problems solubilizing avobenzone and oxybenzone…”

  1. Ratan Chaudhuri says:
    April 22, 2014 at 8:11 am

    George,

    We have found that Isosorbide dicaprylate (Synovea DOI) is an excellent solvent for Avobenzone and Benzophenone 3. Solubility of Avobenzone and Benzophenone 3 in Synovea DOI is ~25%. You can also use mixed solvents, like C12-15 Alkyl benzoate & Synovea DOI (7:3) to get ~25% solubilization of Avobenzone. You can solubilize only ~20% in C12-15 Alkyl benzoate. It seems that mixed solvents provide synergism.

    Synovea DOI has additional benefits – Long-lasting & controlled skin hydration with the improvement of barrier function with excellent skin feel (like silicones). I will send you the presentation separately.

  2. Mandy Sakar says:
    April 23, 2014 at 10:50 am

    Hi George,

    We’ve also been able to microencapsulate the avobenzone and OMC if there are any particularly tricky formulations or if you are looking to provide additional shelf life to the products as well.

    Kind Regards,
    Mandy

  3. CINDY SONG says:
    March 4, 2020 at 3:35 am

    Hello George

    How do you evaluate Avobenzone low temperature oil test?
    I heated all the oils to dissolve Avobenzone and then frozen at -15C for 24 hours.
    After taking out and leaving it at room temperature, there is powder precipitation, is it not suitable for powder precipitation?

    looking forward to your reply
    Thank you very much

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