NYSCC Supplier’s Day 2016 was held at the New Jersey Convention and Expo Center in Edison New Jersey. The show is the largest personal care ingredient trade show in the US and this year’s show had 378 global exhibitors with over 7,000 registered attendees. In this article, I’ll give you highlights of some of my favorite excipient and active technologies that were presented.
Avalure Flex-6 Polymer (Polyurethane-62, Trideceth-6) from Lubrizol is a water dispersible, hydrophobically modified nonionic polymer that acts as an oil in water emulsifier, pigment dispersant, film former, and thickener. It also has good PH/electrolyte tolerance and excellent water resistance. A 1.5% dispersion in water has a viscosity of ~6K cps but significant synergy occurs when added to oil in water lamellar gel network based formulations.
Rheoluxe 812 (Bis Lauryl Cocamidopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer, Butylene Glycol; 25% active) from Elementis is a hydrophobically modified nonionic polymer that provides excellent thickening properties in lamellar gel based oil in water emulsions (.25% active, 500k cps, versus <10K cps without). It also has good salt and PH stability.
Carbopol SMART 3000 Polymer (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/HEMA Crosspolymer-2) from Lubrizol is a nonionic hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylate polymer that can thicken surfactant based products. Clear formulations can be produced at any PH range and the polymer can be added at any point during the manufacturing process. The polymer also helps reduce surfactant irritation and provides a high yield value to suspend solids.
Aqupec SER W-300C (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) from Sumitomo Seika has good electrolyte compatibility up to 3% salt (1% dispersion, 10K cps at a PH of 7 with 2% salt).
Aqupec SER W-150C (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) from Sumitomo Seika/PreSperse has good electrolyte compatibility from 3-5% (1% dispersion, 10K cps at a pH of 7 with 5% salt).
Rheostyl 85L (Acrylates Copolymer; 28% solids) from Coatex/Integrity Ingredients is a hydrophobically modified that thickens surfactant based formulations between PH 4-6. It claims to provide better thickening efficiency and clarity versus leading competitive benchmarks. It also has excellent solid suspending ability.
ClariSoft (Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Polyester-11) from Inolex is claimed to have superior conditioning performance in clear shampoos as well as silicone-free and sulfate-free 2-in-1 shampoos. Claimed benefits include increased lather, slip, manageability, softness, shine, and styling.
Jeesperse Ice-T CIS-2 (PEG-150 Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyquaternium-37) is a powdered base that instantly thickens and forms cationic lamellar gel network based formulations when added to cold water. A lotion containing 30% Glycerin was formulated using 3% Jeesperse Ice-T CIS-2 had an excellent non-tacky skin feel.
Rheoperal WX (Dextrin Palmitate/Hexyldecanoate) from Chiba Flour Milling Co. Ltd./Miyoshi is a gelling agent which forms highly thixotropic, stable, soft oil gels which can suspend solids at low concentrations.
ImerCare 400 D (Diatomaceous Earth) from Imerys was shown to significantly reduce perspiration odor when incorporated into a roll on deodorant at 2%.
With Hemisphere and Coffee Bean PMMA (Polymethylmethacrylate), Kobo offers several different shaped Polymethylmethacrylate powders that have very good skin feel and excellent soft focus skin effects.
Glossamer L6600 (Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer) from Coast Southwest is a unique biodegradable natural based polymer derived from Tung (China wood) and rapeseed oils. The film-forming properties can help provide gloss, moisturization, and improve water/wear-resistance of formulations.
Salscent from Salvona is a liquid fragrance encapsulation system comprised of polymers and surfactants that enables formulators to do their own encapsulation. The fragrance is mixed with the Salscent at a ratio of 1 to 2-3. The complex can then be added to any water based product. After the product is applied to skin, release on skin is triggered by moisture.
SiQube Q1850 (Polysilsequioxane Steardimonium Chloride) from Gelest PCS is a cationic silicone derivative that is soluble in water up to 3% and in polar oils. It has good skin/hair conditioning and antimicrobial properties.
EcoSmooth OptiTouch (Ethylene/Octene Copolymer, Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer; 32% active, 1-2.5 micron) from Dow Chemical is a water based polymer dispersion with good skin feel, mattifying, and soft focus effects. Recommended use level is 3-6% active.
CytoRegulin (Glycerin, Water, Heptapeptide-32) from Vantage Specialties mimics the action of transforming growth factor 1 beta which is believed to be important in wound healing, promoting cell proliferation, migration, and matrix synthesis. CytoRegulin was shown to significantly increase matrix building related genes.
Cellynkage (Propanediol, water, Saccharide Isomerate) from Lipotec is a marine-derived polysaccharide that claims to enhance skin cell communication via increased Connexin expression. A significant improvement in epidermal thickness and Collagen density was seen after using a 2% Cellykage cream for 56 days in post-menopausal women.
Mandelic Acid from McKinley Resources Inc. is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxyl aromatic acid found in bitter almond. It has good water solubility and skin exfoliating properties. It is Claimed to be significantly less irritating than Glycolic acid.
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid from McKinley Resources has been shown to have better wrinkle reducing activity compared with Glycolic acid. Previously was a proprietary L’Oreal active now off of patent.
Sarcosine from McKinley Resources is a naturally occurring amino acid formed in the body as a breakdown product of phospholipid metabolism. Sarcosine has been shown to reduce skin shine and pore size. It also has good moisturizing properties.
ElfaMoist AC (N Acetyl DGA) from AkzoNobel is claimed to be a penetrating humectant that increases hydration and keeps skin moisturized for 30 hours. Significantly better skin hydration versus Glycerin after 24 and 30 hours.
Acemannan Hydrogel Powder (Acemannan-Natural Aloe Costa Rica, >65% active) is a high MW acetylated Mannan derived from Aloe with proven wound healing, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory activity. It may also act as a booster technology to increase the efficacy of skin repair actives.
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