Earlier this month, I attended in-cosmetics 2014, the largest global personal care ingredient trade show in the world, in Hamburg Germany. This year’s event featured 674 global exhibitors showcasing new ingredient, equipment, and testing capabilities. The exhibition was expected to attract over 8000 visitors during the 3 day show.
During my visit, one of the most exciting areas of the show was the Innovation Zone, which awards significant developments in personal care actives and functional formulation ingredients. The finalists were selected by a group of industry judges including Angela Eppler PhD, senior R&D scientist at Pfizer Consumer Healthcare; Dr Jianzhong Yang, PhD, president of Beauty & Health Innovation Co. Ltd.; John Jiménez, senior scientist, Belcorp; and Linda R Marshall, president and owner of Elysee Scientific Cosmetics.
Check out my summary of the Innovation Zone finalists below, including additional product information.
Innovation Zone Best Ingredients Finalists – Actives
Redensyl
(Water, Glycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Zinc Chloride, Camelia Sinensis leaf Extract)
Redensyl (EU) by Induchem USA, Inc. (EU) was the winner of the silver award for best new ingredient. It’s a new hair growth active claimed to target hair follicular stem cells. Redensyl reactivates the proliferation of ORSc stem cells, protects them from apoptosis, maintains their differentiation properties and activates the metabolism of the dermal papillary fibroblasts. A clinical demonstrated a 9% increase in anagen (growing phase) hair after 3 months of using a tonic containing 3% Redensyl and a 17% decrease in telogen (resting phase) hair. 85% of subjects showed positive results.
Argirelox
(Water, Glycerin, .05% Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Peptipide-18, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol)
Argirelox by Lipotec (EU) was the winner of the bronze award. It’s a combination of 2 peptides claimed to reduce facial expression lines by modulating muscle contraction. The peptides work by complementary mechanisms of action which have proven in vivo to enhance and prolong the anti-wrinkle effect obtained with Botulinum Toxin type-A injections when applied between sessions. Reductions of frontal forehead lines and crow’s feet wrinkles were almost 3 times greater in vivo when the injection was complemented with the application of a cream containing Argireline peptide, compared to that achieved with the placebo. The benefit was noticeable even after 6 months.
Snow Algae Powder
Snow Algae Powder (EU) by Mibelle AG Biochemistry (EU) is a new active claimed to increase skin’s longevity. In vitro studies demonstrated that Snow Algae Powder stimulates the longevity gene klotho and activates AMPK, a master switch in the cellular defense system. The klotho protein interferes with the insulin growth factor receptor signaling inducing a calorie restriction-mimetic effect. Calorie restriction is the only proven mechanism to prolong the lifespan of an organism. An in vivo clinical study using multiphoton tomography demonstrated that Snow Algae Powder restored the papillary structure of the dermal epidermal junction to a more youthful state.
Sebuless
(Maltodextrin, Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Extract)
Sebuless by Sederma (EU) is a new active claimed to mattify and equalize the tone of oily and acne-prone skin in one month. It has been shown to reduce skin oiliness by 15% and inflammatory blemishes after 1 month of using .5% Sebuless. It also was shown to increase the production of naturally occurring antimicrobial peptides in vitro.
Cytobiol Iris A²
(Propanediol, Alcohol, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Zinc Sulfate, Retinyl Palmitate-Gattefosse)
Cytobiol™ Iris A 2 (EU) by Gattefossé (EU) claims to reduce skin imperfections and minimize pores. A 28 day clinical study demonstrated a 17% reduction in dilated pores, 20% reduction in P. acne and skin was noticeably less oily and more matte.
Innovation Zone Best Ingredients Finalists – Excipients
Emulium Mellifera
(Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol-Gattefose)
EMULIUM® MELLIFERA (EU) by Gattefossé (EU) was the winner of the gold award for best new ingredient. EMULIUM® MELLIFERA is a PEG-free emulsifier that claims to produce oil-in-water emulsions that can adapt to skin types and climate. In cold and dry climates, emulsions soothe and protect the skin from dehydration. While in tropical conditions, they form an invisible shield, which neutralizes the greasy and heavy skin feel that results from high humidity. Tested in vivo on a panel comprising skin types from very dry to oily, 100% of women confirm a perfect match with their expectations.
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer
(Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride)
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer by Ashland Specialty Ingredients (EU) is a cationic polymer designed to be used in hair conditioner formulations for hair repair and conditioning. The ingredient claims to help restore hair hydrophobicity to that of virgin hair by forming coacervates with anionic surfactants on hair during subsequent shampooing. Also claimed are improved benefits up to 5 washings, no build up, excellent wet comb, and eliminates the need for silicone in formulations.
Chromapol™ 5 Polymer
(Acrylates Beheneth 25 Methacrylate Copolymer)
Chromapol™ 5 Polymer by Lubrizol (EU) claims to provide superior rheology and sensory benefits in hair color formulations. Clear hair dye gels or creams free from fatty alcohols can be formulated while maintaining color developing efficiency. Formulations can also be processed cold and have a no drip rheology allowing for better consumer in-use experience. Chromapol™ formulations are also claimed to work well when combined with Merquat (EU) conditioning polymers.
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