This year’s in-cosmetics show was held in Paris, France from April 12-14. The show, which is the world’s largest personal care ingredient exhibition, had over 8500 visitors with more than 700 exhibitors (131 new this year).
The innovation gold award for best new active ingredient went to Givaudan for their Neurophroline (Tephrosia purpurea extract) which claims to inhibit Cortisol release and stimulate Beta Endorphin production in vitro. In vivo clinicals demonstrated a significant reduction in the effects of pollution (Ozone/Polycyclic hydrocarbons) on skin. A significant reduction in skin color/redness and dark circles was also observed after using a product containing 2% Neurophroline for 1 month versus placebo.
Lucas Meyer's Miniporyl (Isopentyldiol, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract) took home the Silver award. Miniporyl improves keratinocyte differentiation, increases Involucrin, Kilaggrin and keratin 10 synthesis. It also was shown to Inhibit 5α-reductase and reduce sebum accumulation in Sebocytes.
The gold award for the best excipient technology when to Agrimer’s Seaweed Caviar natural-based encapsulation system comprised of marine polysaccharides and active that easily breaks down when rubbed on skin providing exfoliation effects while leaving little residue. The Silver award went to: Sigmund Lindner’s Siliglam Nature for their biodegradable glitter.
Looking for excipients for your personal care formulation?
Prospector has material listings for excipient ingredients along with technical data and the ability to request samples.
Some of my favorite ingredients from in-cosmetics:
Diol PD-V (Pentylene Glycol-Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. Ltd.) is a high purity water white, low odor Pentylene Glycol produced by fermentation. It has good antimicrobial boosting activity using ~3% in formulations. A good choice for those formulator’s looking for natural based ingredients.
Symocide C (O-Cymen-5-ol-Symrise)- is a nature identical Thymol isomer that is globally approved as a cosmetic preservative at .1%. It is color and odor free and is readily soluble in most polar solvents like glycols. It also has antioxidant activity and is easy to formulate.
ElfaMoist AC (N Acetyl DGA-AkzoNobel) is claimed to be a penetrating, non-tacky humectant that increases hydration and keeps skin moisturized for up to 30 hours. A few more details:
- Was shown to penetrate the Stratum Corneum up to 6 layers
- Have significantly better skin hydration versus Glycerin after 24 and 30 hours
- Did not disrupt the skin lipid barrier function
- Was less tacky and sticky versus Glycerin
- Was PH and viscosity stable in formulations
Polyelectrolyte Complex Three (PEC 3-Ashland)- provides long lasting styling and conditioning benefits to hair. The complex is comprised of Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Acrylates copolymer and claims to be heat activated to produce a film that is wash resistant, shiny, smoothing with no frizzing.
SurfaThix N Polymer (Acrylates Copolymer, Water-Ashland, 30% solids)-is a hydrophobically modified acrylate which thickens surfactant based skin and hair care formulations. Versus the key competitive benchmarks, it has been shown in formulations to have improved clarity and equal to or superior viscosity building efficiency.
Kao Sofcare GP-1 (PPG3 Caprylyl Ether-Kao Chemical)- is a multifunctional conditioning agent imparting similar performance benefits as silicone. It can be used as a total or partial replacement for Amodimethicone and Dimethicone and you can make clear silicone free shampoo formulations. It also has been shown to improve silicone deposition efficiency reducing the amount of needed in final formulations from 1 to .25%.
Revcare Natural Effects (Sodium Polyitaconate-Revolymer)- is a anionic film forming polymer derived from 100% bio-renewable naturally sourced feedstock. It claims to provide excellent hair styling hold with good humidity resistance and occlusive moisturization/active retention. It also is a good chelator agent and skin/hair moisturizer.
RevCare Skin Sense (Isoprene/MA/Methoxy PEG-40 Copolymer, PEG-40 Methoxy Ether-Revolymer)- is an excellent occlusive moisturizing agent for skin that is both oil and water soluble. It also may enhance the delivery and retention of actives on skin and improve fragrance retention.
ExpertGel (Polymer Expert)- are water soluble EO/PO Polyurethane copolymers that thicken in water when heated between 30 to 45C. Expert gels can boost SPF (up to 300%), disperse pigments, act as emulsifiers and help thicken formulations. Commercially available ExpertGels include EG 412 (Poloxamer 407, PPG12 SMDI Copolymer) and EG 312 (Poloxamer 338, PPG 12 SMDI Copolymer).
Tightenyl (Glycerin, Water, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Sodium Glucuronate, Magnesium Sulfate-Givaudan)- is claimed to significantly increase Proteoglycan production in skin. Ex vivo results suggest that when tested at .6% for 8 days it may have better efficacy than a .05% Retinol cream in improving the structure of the extracellular matrix. A 14 day clinical using 2% Tightenyl demonstrated a significant improvement in skin firmness, tonicity, and viscoelasticity versus placebo. When used at 2% for 84 days a dramatic improvement in skin density and bio-lifting was also observed.
Syn-Up (DSM) inhibits two serine proteases in the epidermis which play a crucial role in skin resilience. Syn-Up was shown in vitro to inhibit Urokinase activity by up to 97% and plasmin activity 41%.
Syn-Star (DSM) claims to stimulates PLOD3 which increases collagen stability. PLOD3 (procollagen-lysine, 2-oxoglutarate 5-dioxygenase 3) is known to be important for the stability of intermolecular collagen crosslinks. In vitro assay have shown that Syn-Star also inhibits DPP4 (dipeptidyl peptidase-4), a key enzyme involved in sebum flow. Clinical testing confirmed wrinkle reducing efficacy and sebum reduction.