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Salicylic Acid: Origins, Formulation Strategies & Delivery Forms

Posted on April 8, 2016 by George Deckner

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whitewillow02

Salicylic Acid (SA)

Salicylic acid (Hydroxybenzoic acid) is a white, colorless crystalline powder that occurs naturally in white willow. The active extract of the bark, salicin, is a glucoside of salicylic acid.

The first recorded use of salicylates dates back 4,000 years to the Sumerians who used willow extracts for pain relief. Ancient civilizations in Mesopotamia used willow extracts to treat fever, pain, and inflammation. Both Chinese and Greek civilizations employed willow bark for medical use more than 2,000 years ago, and the Chinese also used poplar bark and willow shoots to treat rheumatic fever, colds, hemorrhages, and goiter. Native Americans were known to have widely used SA in the form of willow bark, to treat pain, fever, and inflammation.

In 1828 Johann Buchner was the first to distill from willow bark the substance he called “Salicin” after the Latin name for the willow tree, Salix alba. In 1829, French chemist Henri LaRoux perfected the extraction technique. In 1853, Charles Gerhardt, another Frenchman, invented Aspirin, though it wasn’t marketed until the Bayer company patented the formula in 1899.

SA is commercially prepared by treating sodium phenolate (the sodium salt of phenol) with carbon dioxide at high pressure (100 atm.) and high temperature (390K), a method known as the Kolbe-Schmitt reaction. Acidification of the product with sulfuric acid gives SA.


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Key chemical properties

Molecular weight 138.12
Sublimes at 70C
.18% soluble in water @20C, .41% @40C, 1.7% @75C
13.8% soluble in Ethanol @ 20C
Solubility in Glycerin 1.63%, 20% Ethanol will solubilize ~.5% SA

  • The solubility of salicylic acid in cold water is increased by the presence of neutral salts. Three parts of Sodium Phosphate will solubilize one part of SA in fifty parts of water
  • Spray drying of SA dispersed in acacia solutions can result in as much as a 50% improvement in its solubility.
  • PH of a saturated water solution is 2.4
  • Pka 2.97 (50% ionized)
  • Sodium Salicylate solubility in water 125 grams/100 grams
  • C log P 2.26

Typical OTC personal care applications are for the treatment of acne where it is monographed from .5-2% and dandruff 1.8-3%. Triethanolamine salicylate is also used as a topical analgesic, but this indication has not been approved by the FDA. It is also monographed for the removal of warts at 15%. Cosmetic applications include chemical peels and antiaging products to increase cell turnover and reduce wrinkles. The key mode of action for SA is increased keratolytic activity in these applications.

Formulation strategies

When formulating clear, water-based solutions, the key consideration is solubilization. SA can be solubilized using ethanol, glycols, and nonionic ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

The PH of the formulation is also a critical factor since it dramatically affects both solubility and efficacy. When formulating 2% SA at a PH of 3, the best strategy is to solubilize the SA using 42% ethanol and isoceteth 20 (Brij IC20 – Croda). Since SA easily penetrates skin, adding a material like Polyolprepolymer-15 (PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer – Barnet Products) can be useful to increase the deposition of salicylic acid in the upper layers of the stratum corneum and to reduce skin irritation.

Another consideration when formulating at a PH of 3 is to avoid using ester-based materials that can hydrolyze. SA formulations should contain a good chelant to prevent discoloration due to reacting with trace iron. SA can also be formulated into alcohol-free, oil-in-water emulsions by first solubilizing the SA using an emollient like Arlamol PS15E (PPG-15 Stearyl Ether – Croda). This oil phase can then be emulsified into an aqueous gel containing acid-stable thickeners like Sepigel 305, Aristoflex AVC, or Synthalen CR. (Polyquaternium 37 – 3V).

Novel salicylic acid delivery forms

  • Curcylic 40 (Salicylic acid, Cocamidopropylamine – Vantage Specialties) is water soluble at a PH of 3 without needing any solvents.
  • CC Salicylic Acid 50% (Salicylic Acid, Cyclodextrin – Rahn)
  • Genti-Fol SA (Betaine Salicylate – Lonza, 50% SA) is a salicylic acid/betaine complex with improved water solubility.
  • Microsponge P078A (Salicylic Acid, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer – Amcol) provides sustained release of salicylic acid on skin.
  • SalSphere Salicylic Acid (Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Aqua, Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil – Salvona) is a time release delivery system designed to treat acne from a clear rinse-off application.

References

  • http://www.chemheritage.org/discover/media/magazine/articles/27-2-aspirin.aspx 
  • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid
  • Rhein L., Chaudhuri B., Jivani N., Fares H., Davis A., Targeted delivery of salicylic acid from acne treatment products into and through skin’ Role of solution and ingredient properties and relationships to irritation, J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 65-80 (January/February 2004).
  • Zheng Y., Wan M., Chen H., Ye C., Zhao Y., Yi J., Xia Y., Lai W., Clinical evidence on the efficacy and safety of an antioxidant optimized 1.5% salicylic acid (SA) cream in the treatment of facial acne: an open, baseline-controlled clinical study, Skin Res Technol. 2013 May;19(2):125-30.
  • Polyolprepolymer-15 Barnet Products product bulletin

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics Tagged With: Material Deep Dive

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

17 Responses to “Salicylic Acid: Origins, Formulation Strategies & Delivery Forms”

  1. HIMA ZOHEIR says:
    April 12, 2016 at 2:40 am

    Bonjour
    qu’est ce qu’il en est avec association : Polysorbate 20 et PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

  2. Amrish says:
    April 12, 2016 at 10:28 pm

    Fantastic article

  3. Ubonrat Somprakit says:
    April 24, 2016 at 9:38 am

    Kindly send me the guideline of this formulation by the email.

  4. Leandro Mindo says:
    May 5, 2017 at 2:34 pm

    Hi George,

    Very helpful article.

    I am wondering if you have any information on Sal acid degradation and discoloration due to UV exposure.

    Thanks,

  5. George Deckner says:
    May 6, 2017 at 3:03 am

    Sal acid is UV stable but can sometimes turn red in solution if trace iron is present. A chelator like Disodium EDTA can prevent this.

    George

  6. Leandro Mindo says:
    May 9, 2017 at 2:50 pm

    thanks George.

  7. Babylen Knight says:
    June 7, 2018 at 10:21 pm

    Hi George,
    Will you please send me a guideline for psoriasis medications by email!

    Thanks!

  8. George Deckner says:
    June 9, 2018 at 3:48 am

    This is not a simple question that I can quickly answer.

    Sorry

    George

  9. Kapil Chaudhari says:
    August 21, 2019 at 5:04 am

    what shoud be PH to stable in water based salicylic serum product

  10. George Deckner says:
    August 22, 2019 at 3:23 am

    To get good efficacy the PH of the formulation should be around 3. SA has no stability issues.

  11. Carl Podraza says:
    March 24, 2020 at 6:47 pm

    Very Informative, thank you. Octyldodecanol is also a good solvent for SA. Can you get the same anti acne activity in an anhydrous product (e.g. stick) that you do in a water/alcohol based product?

  12. George Deckner says:
    March 25, 2020 at 7:47 am

    Hi, Carl.

    SA will not partition out of Octyldodecanol into skin as easily as it does from ethanol/water however it still is probably better than formulating SA at a PH above 3 since the salt form isn’t very effective. My guess is you still will get efficacy since normally skin penetration isn’t an issue for unneutralized SA.

    Thank you,
    George

  13. mofazzal says:
    June 7, 2021 at 8:56 pm

    Dear Concern,
    Will the SA decompose if the SA dissolved in the mixture of Glycerine & propylene glycol at 80°C?

  14. George Deckner says:
    June 8, 2021 at 7:29 am

    Dear Mofazzal:

    There is no impact.

    Thanks for reading!
    George

  15. Trang Vu says:
    November 4, 2021 at 2:13 pm

    What concentrations do you recommend using for PPG-15 Stearyl Ether and Polyquat 37? Can I substitute PPG-15 stearyl ether with PPG-14 butyl ether?

  16. George Deckner says:
    November 8, 2021 at 7:57 am

    Dear Trang:

    I do not recommend using PPG 14 Butyl Ether due some eye irritation issues. To solubilize 1% Sal acid takes around 8% PPG 15 Stearyl Ether. Add Polyquaternium 37 to your desired viscosity. A gel will take around 1-2% active polymer.

    Thanks for reading!
    George

  17. Dr Chidi Ibie says:
    April 14, 2022 at 1:47 am

    This article is so helpful and insightful. Thank you so much George Deckner.

    Dr Chidi Ibie

Comments are closed.

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