To be an expert cosmetic formulator, it’s not enough to learn the science of cosmetic raw materials and which ones are compatible with each other. While this information is critical, another part of the cosmetic formulator job is just as important: properly evaluating your prototypes.
Experience has shown that an excellent and inexpensive way to understand the way consumers interact with your formulas is to try them yourself. I was amazed to discover there were formulators who never tried the products they made. It continues to baffle me.
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While trying your prototypes is important it’s even more important to evaluate them in a systematic way. Here is a system that you can use to evaluate your own formulations. After you’ve practiced this system enough times, you can consider yourself a product evaluation expert, at least for that particular product type.
Step 1 – Pick a benchmark
It is almost never the case that you will be developing a product completely new to the market. There is always a market leader that you should compare yourself to. This can be a competitive product or one of your own formulations. You just need to pick some product as a starting point. This is the thing you are trying to beat.
If you’re looking for a benchmark, it is always a good idea to pick a product that is the best selling in whatever market you’re formulating. For example, when you’re creating a hair care product you should look at the sales data and choose the best selling product as your benchmark.
Step 2 – Develop your baseline skills
In 2005, I probably had the most shampooed head in America. That year while working on a new shampoo and conditioner formula I washed my hair over 1500 times. I was a big believer in trying every prototype. While using the products I did it paying close attention to specific characteristics which helped me develop the ability to notice subtle differences.
Now, each formula type and category is different but there are some general things you can pay attention to while evaluating products.
For hair products the most important characteristics include:
- Rinse time – how long it takes to be removed from hair
- Flash foam – how fast the foam forms
- Lather feel – does the lather feel creamy or loose
- Feel in hair – how does the product feel in the hair
- Spreadability – how easy is it to move through hair
- After feel – what does hair feel like after using it
- Dry feel – when hair dries how does it feel
- Lasting feel – how does hair feel later in the day
For skin products…
- Rub in time – how long it takes to disappear
- Greasiness – how does it feel on skin
- Tackiness – does skin feel sticky
- Overall feel – after you’ve applied it how does it feel
- Whiteness – how does it effect skin color
- Reapplication time – how long does moisturizing effect last
For each of these characteristics you should develop a rating scale (1-5 or 1-10 works well). Then use your benchmark formula and give ratings for each important characteristic. It’s good to repeat this process and see if your scores stay consistent.
Step 3 – Make prototypes
Once you’ve developed your baseline skills, test one of your prototypes. Ideally, you have created a prototype in which you’ve changed only one variable. This will make it easier for you to identify which ingredient is responsible for any significant changes. If you continually test radically different prototypes it will be more difficult for you to get formulating direction from the results of your test.
Step 4 – Test prototype alone
Just as you did with the baseline sample, you should test your prototype a few times and then rate it for the most important characteristics. Be sure to try and forget what your scores are for the benchmark product. At this point it is not that important to be blinded however, as you’re just trying to see if your new prototype is worth further testing.
Step 5 – Compare samples
Once you find a prototype that you want to explore further, set up a blinded test and do your evaluation. The key to a blinded test is that you have no way of knowing which samples are which. So, if there are color differences keep your eyes closed when evaluating the product. If there are odor differences try to hold your nose. Ideally, you could match fragrances to eliminate this variable.
You can give ratings for the samples or you can just decide which you like better. If you like your prototype better, great! But don’t celebrate just yet. Re-run the test a couple of times to see if you consistently pick the prototype over the benchmark. If you can’t, then you don’t have an improvement.
Step 6 – Get opinions from others
If you are satisfied that your testing shows your prototype is better, then try it out on a few colleagues. Give them samples of your prototype and the benchmark and ask them if they notice any differences. Also, have them pick which they like better. Make it a forced choice.
Step 7 – Revise prototypes
Make revisions to your prototype based on the response you get from your own testing and that of the other people who have tried your cosmetic formulation. You really should try at least half a dozen revisions before being satisfied with any results.
Step 8 – Performance tests
If you are satisfied with your in-use tests, it’s time to do some laboratory performance tests. The specific tests you do depends on the type of product you are making. For cleansing products you’ll want to test foam. For moisturizing products, test moisturization. Color products you test wear. There are just innumerable number of tests you can conduct.
Once your prototype outscores your benchmark, it’s time to move forward and push the product along to development. Congratulations!
Now, just one other thing…don’t forget to do an early stability test.
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Hi Perry – recognize you from Chemist Corner!
This is a helpful read!
All the best!
Antonia
Good article but I was amazed you made no mention of ensuring the safety of the raw materials or finished products to protect yourself or any other subject!
Very helpful. I have passed this on to my team to utilize.
Thanks!
I guess it’s assumed that people will only test products that are safe.
Well Done 🙂
Wonderful article, Perry!
I’m a big believer in analyzing every prototype too – this is, after all, the point of the prototype. I usually do at least two prototypes for each new ingredient.
Baseline benchmarks are so very important. Once I determine the benchmarks for my final product, I create two benchmark analysis spreadsheet tabs – one that scores each ingredient alone and another that scores each prototype. I’ve found this is the easiest way for me to wrap my brain around how the ingredients are behaving independently and also how they perform together in synergy.
Thank you for this interesting discussion!
That’s a helpful technique for analyzing prototypes. Thanks!