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Microemulsions Explained

Posted on September 25, 2015 by George Deckner — 5 comments

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Makeup removers represent one of the main applications for microemulsions.
Makeup removers represent one of the main applications for microemulsions

The term “microemulsion” was first used by Schulman1 in 1959 to describe a multiphase system consisting of water, oil, surfactant and alcohol, which forms transparent solutions. MEs are thermodynamically stable micellar dispersions with a particle size of 10-100 nm that instantly form with simple mixing. They are low-viscosity systems containing an aqueous phase, oil phase, surfactant, and a cosurfactant.

The cosurfactant, typically a polyol or alkanol, helps reduce the interfacial tension, which in turn helps to reduce the size of the dispersed droplets and normally is water-insoluble. The presence of the cosurfactant also reduces the rigidity of the interfacial film, leading to the formation of a bicontinuous structure typical of microemulsions.

MEs can exist as oil in water, water in oil, or bicontinuous emulsions that are oil or water soluble. ME formation is dependent on surfactant type/structure and can be formed using ionic or nonionic surfactants. If the surfactant is ionic and contains a single hydrocarbon chain like sodium lauryl sulfate, MEs will only form if a co-surfactant and/or electrolyte is present. With double chain ionics and some non-ionic surfactants, a cosurfactant is frequently not necessary.

The main current marketed applications for MEs include makeup removers, stable oil in water emulsion based wipes, silicone free hair conditioning shampoos, and as fragrance and essential oil solubilization.

Note, Nano emulsions are also clear colloidal dispersions but are not true MEs since they are not thermodynamically stable and frequently require high shear processing to form.

Advantages of Microemulsions

  • Easy to produce with minimal mixing
  • Very stable
  • Visually clear
  • Can significantly increase the solubility of actives and fragrances
  • Can increase skin penetration and the efficacy of actives
  • Are excellent for removing all types of makeup
  • Conditioning shampoos and moisturizing body washes

Disadvantages

  • Require high levels of surfactants
  • Can be irritating
  • Can sometimes be difficult to preserve
  • Are thin and can only be thickened using water soluble polymers and still remain clear (not swellable polymers like Carbomer)

Recommended Surfactants/Solvents

  • Plantaren® 2000 (Decyl Glucoside-BASF)
  • Labrasol® (PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides-Gattefossé), surfactant
  • Plurol® Diisostearique (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate-Gattefossé), cosurfactant
  • Plurol® Isostearique (Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate-Gattefossé), cosurfactant
  • Plurol® Oleique (Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate-Gattefossé), cosurfactant
  • Transcutol® CG (Ethoxydiglycol-Gattefossé), solvent

Marketed Microemulsion Systems

  • Caprol® Micro Express (PEG 6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate-Abitec), will form a microemulsion using 9 parts water and 1 part Express. Can dissolve actives into Express before water addition
  • Barcleanse BC (Sorbitan Oleate, PEG 10 Laurate, Water, Decyl Glucoside-Barnet Products) is a bicontinuous micro emulsion
  • Plantasil® Micro (Dicaprylyl Ether, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate-BASF) is positioned as a silicone free hair conditioning booster
  • TEGO® Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate-Evonik)
  • Lamesoft® OD (Coco-Caprylate, Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate-BASF)
  • Emulgade® CPE (Olus Oil, Glycerin, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glyceryl Oleate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate-BASF) recommended for making wipe nanoemulsions
  • Lamesoft® PO 65 (Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate-BASF) recommended as a skin refatting agent in body washes

References

  1. Schulman, J. H.; Stoeckenius, W.; Prince, M. J. Phys. Chem. 1959, 63, 1677

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics Tagged With: formulation, Application

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

5 Responses to “Microemulsions Explained”

  1. Dr.Prakadh Pathare says:
    October 7, 2015 at 9:06 pm

    Nice summary article.

  2. Dr.Prakadh Pathare says:
    October 7, 2015 at 9:07 pm

    Nice summary in such limited words.

  3. Mohamed Shabrawy says:
    October 8, 2015 at 3:07 pm

    Kindly, what is the difference between primary and secondary surfactants and the cosurfactants? thanking you in advance.

  4. juan jose herrera says:
    April 15, 2020 at 9:54 am

    Dear Dr. Deckner:

    Have a good day,asking for your help, and to your extensive experience, what solubilizers and emulsifiers would you recommend to make a transparent emulsion of vitamin A palmitate.
    Thank you very much for your attention
    With best wishes

    Juan Jose Herrera
    Chemist

    [email protected]

  5. George Deckner says:
    April 15, 2020 at 12:39 pm

    Hello, and thank you for reading.

    It depends on how much vitamin palmitate you are using and what else is in the formulation.
    Please provide more detail.

    Thank you,
    George

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