The Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting was held last month on December 12-13, 2013 in New York City, and I was pleased to be in attendance. There were 73 posters given at the Technology Showcase, which included scientific papers, trends, new raw materials and functional bio-actives. Below you’ll find a list of the ones I found most interesting and useful.
EPITEX™ AC Powder (Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer – Dow Consumer & Industrial Solutions) is a wash resistant polymer designed for use in ethanol based sunscreen sprays, In vivo wash resistant testing demonstrated comparable results to the leading benchmark wash resistant polymer (Acrylates/Octyl Acrylamide Co Polymer). It also is claimed to have better sunscreen solubility and film uniformity on skin. Typical use levels are 1.25-2.5% on a solids basis.
EU: Dow Consumer & Industrial Solutions
Sophogreen (Water, Glucose, Rapeseed Fatty Acid-Soliance) is a green, non EO, fermentation produced Sophorolipid based surfactant that can be used to solubilize actives and fragrances. The typical active level required to solubilize 1% fragrance is ~3-4% Sophogreen versus 4-8% for PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor oil is an industry benchmark).
RonaCare® Pristine Bright™ (Butylmethoxyphenylpropanediol-EMD) is an interesting new skin lightening agent that claims to shift skin color from yellow to blue which helps improve perceived skin whiteness. This is analogous to the use of bluing agents in laundry products to help whiten clothes. The material is also very stable, easy to formulate, and should have good skin penetration properties.
EU: RonaCare® Pristine Bright™
Genemarkers has developed a standardized test that allows researchers to evaluate single test articles (raw material, formulation, finished product) in a cost-effective manner. The gene panel includes 92 genes that play essential roles in skin biology; i.e. extracellular matrix molecules, skin barrier formation, anti-oxidant mechanisms, inflammation.
Dow Corning ES-5600 (Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silyethyl Dimethicone-Dow Corning) is a new non EO silicone based polymeric water in oil emulsifier. It has excellent emulsification performance versus the top competitive EO and non EO containing silicone based emulsifiers.
EU: Dow Corning Europe
Dow Corning CE-1874 Microemulsion (PEG-7 Dimethicone, Laureth 7, Polysorbate 20) is a silicone polyether based hair conditioning microemulsion for clear shampoos. It provides excellent shine and conditioning with good volume. It also helps restore the normal hydrophobic character to hair (bleach damaged hair is hydrophilic).
EU: Dow Corning Europe
Silsoft Silk (Momentive Performance Materials) is a high efficiency silicone quat microemulsion for clear shampoos that deposits on hair more efficiently and conditions hair better than Amodimethicone or the leading competitive silicone quat.
EU: Momentive Performance Materials
Silsoft* AX-E (Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-25-Momentive Performance Materials) is an Amodimethicone emulsion for rinse-off conditioners. Testing in a standard base demonstrated superior deposition and hair conditioning properties versus Dimethiconol or Amodimethicone.
EU: Silsoft AX-E | Momentive Performance Materials
New Phase Technologies had an excellent poster describing strategies for optimizing anhydrous stick strength, gloss, and payoff. Using blends of waxes which provide stick strength, payoff, and gloss normally work better than single waxes. The best single wax in their work was PERFORMACOL® 425 Alcohol (C20-40 Alcohols). The best mixture was PERFORMALENE® 400 (Polyethylene) combined with Performa V 6175. Contact New Phase for a copy of the poster.
EU: PERFORMACOL® 425 Alcohol | PERFORMALENE® 400 | New Phase Technologies
Sussex Research demonstrated that glycosylation of skin repair peptides significantly increases their activity on human dermal fibroblasts. They also sell glycosylated peptides.
Composite ACCB-33 (Kaolin, Black 2, Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate-Kobo Products) is a non nano powdered dispersion containing Carbon Black encapsulated in Acrylate based polymers. The product provides excellent color, volume, and tactile properties to mascara formulations while being at a particle size of 25 microns.
The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author, and are not necessarily those of UL, ULProspector.com or Knowledge.ULProspector.com. While the editors of this site make every effort to verify the accuracy of its content, we assume no responsibility for errors made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor. All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced without prior authorization from Prospector.