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Popular Ingredients – SEPIGEL™ 305

Posted on December 6, 2013 by George Deckner

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The “Most Searched Products” section in Innovadex’s New Trend Tuesday e-newsletter highlights several ingredients each week that are popular with users of the search engine. One that you may have noticed in the recent past is SEPIGEL™ 305 (Polyacrylamide, CI3-14 Isoparafin, Laureth-7-Seppic), a liquid dispersion polymer (LDP) used to thicken oil in water emulsions and gels. I’ve designed the following overview as a research reference for formulators on this commonly used ingredient.

Launched around 1990 by SEPPIC, SEPIGEL™ 305 was one of the first LDPs on the market and represented a significant improvement over Carbomers in terms of formulating ease and low PH tolerance. SEPIGEL™ 305 is produced by crosslinking polymerized 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPs) with a difunctional acrylamide monomer like N,N’-Methylenebisacrylamide. The low PH thickening ability of SEPIGEL™ 305 is due to the low PKa of the sulfonic acid group compared to the carboxyl group of acrylate based polymers.

LDPs are common thickeners used in personal care products and have displaced powdered Carbomers in popularity. They are produced by polymerizing monomers in a water-in-oil emulsion and the water is then removed. A hydrophilic surfactant is added to facilitate hydration when added to water.

SEPIGEL™ 305-Advantages

  • Extremely easy to process, hot or cold
  • PH stable 3-12
  • Can formulate excellent low PH self-tanning products or Salicylic acid products
  • Excellent skin feel with good pickup
  • Can make stable emulsions without using additional emulsifiers
  • May be cheaper on an active basis then powdered Carbomers and acrylates
  • Compatible with insoluble salts like iron oxides or zinc oxide (>PH7). Carbomers are not compatible

SEPIGEL™ 305-Disadvantages

  • The polymer in LDPs can settle out over time
  • Can’t make clear gels
  • Very salt sensitive
    • 7% active polymer 59.5K cps, .6% Sodium Chloride
    • 2% active polymer 60K cps, 0% Sodium Chloride

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

19 Responses to “Popular Ingredients – SEPIGEL™ 305”

  1. Julian levine says:
    December 10, 2013 at 5:04 am

    Hi
    Whenever I use a thickener (Sepigel, Aquagel or Simugel in my product it leaves an oily feel and look on the skin especially on the hands. Any suggestions ?
    Regards
    Julian Levine Dip. Pharm. D.Hom

  2. George Deckner says:
    December 10, 2013 at 11:04 am

    Hi Julian, thanks for your question. Liquid dispersion polymer based thickeners like Sepigel 305 use oil based
    emollients as carriers for the polymeric thickener. The carrier represents
    around 50-60% of the dispersion. If you want no oily residue skin feel, you
    need to use powdered thickeners like Carbopol Ultrez 21 (Lubrizol) or
    Aristoflex AVC Clariant).

    Best,
    George Deckner

  3. Peter Lake says:
    December 14, 2013 at 6:04 am

    Alternatively try Dow Corning RM 2051 Thickening Agent which is similar chemistry of polymer and will mix in the same way but uses silicone instead of isoparaffin as the oil – this should give a nicer skin feel.

  4. Angel Alberto says:
    October 2, 2014 at 12:09 am

    Peter.
    Dow Corning RM2051 is polyacrylate based. So, pH range is shorter than Seppic 305

  5. Angel Alberto says:
    October 2, 2014 at 12:11 am

    George.
    May I ask a question?
    As INCI suggests, I though SEPPIC 305 is polyacrylamide (-CONH2) and not AMP….but according to your text, I may be wrong…

  6. George Deckner says:
    October 3, 2014 at 3:19 pm

    Angel,

    Sepigel 305 is an AMPs based polymer crosslinked using Bis Acrylamide. The INCI listing for Sepigel 305 is incorrect.

    George

  7. walter says:
    April 30, 2015 at 2:53 pm

    ¿puedo hacer una mezcla de RM 2051 3% y sepigel 305 2% en una crema facial-corporal?

  8. Mark Oscl says:
    July 23, 2015 at 6:53 am

    If I understand the polyacrylamide component of Sepigel 305 correctly, it is a ‘crosslinked ingredient’ versus just ‘polyacrylamide with a specific molecular weight’. Can you please confirm that this is accurate and correct? Thank you.

  9. Mark Oscl says:
    July 23, 2015 at 6:56 am

    Quick Follow Up Question: Based on your comments above, what is the correct INCI for Sepigel 305? Also, is there a UNII code for this product? If not, then can you please provide the full descriptive name and UNII Code for the polyacrylamide (i.e,, 1500 MW, resin modified, etc.)?

  10. George Deckner says:
    July 23, 2015 at 3:30 pm

    Sepigel 305 is a AMPs based polymer that has been crosslinked using bis acrylamide.

  11. Meredith meeves says:
    January 18, 2017 at 3:03 pm

    I have purchased Sepigel 305 to thicken a skin cream containing macadamia oil however it is not penetrating the skin please recommend a product that will give good penetration , would a propylene glycol or solvent help and how should it be added. Thanks

  12. George Deckner says:
    January 19, 2017 at 4:50 am

    Your best best is to use some Lecithin in the formulation. Phospholipids in general are good penetration enhancers..

  13. Monica Spriggs says:
    August 9, 2017 at 12:49 pm

    Can you use Sepigel 305 in a Rosacea Cream?

  14. Randa says:
    November 20, 2019 at 12:40 pm

    Is sepigel safe if ther is contacting with mouth?can i use it to make a food grade lotion?

  15. Angie Pedersen says:
    November 20, 2019 at 1:01 pm

    Hi Randa,

    This question would be best directed to the manufacturer. You can find their contact details in Prospector.

    Thanks for your question!
    Angie
    UL Content Team

  16. puji says:
    September 21, 2020 at 2:59 am

    we use sepigel as thickener (2.5%) in cream base and pH value was 4. after a month the cream changed become solid like a tofu. what a factor involved to this problem? plz kindly give us alternative thickener suggestion.

  17. George Deckner says:
    September 21, 2020 at 3:15 pm

    Hi, Puji:

    The Sepigel may be crosslinked by something in the formulation. I can ‘t give any recommendations without knowing what else is in the formulation.

    Thanks for reading,
    George

  18. Zaitoon says:
    May 30, 2021 at 2:25 am

    Hi there, can sepigel 305 be used in a cleanser,

  19. George Deckner says:
    June 2, 2021 at 8:13 am

    Dear Zaitoon:

    It will work only in an emollient based oil in water cleanser that doesn’t contain any salt. I won’t work in surfactant based cleansers.

    Thanks for reading,
    George

Comments are closed.

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