NYSCC Suppliers’ Day is the second largest personal care ingredient trade show in the world. This year there were a record number of 700+ booths representing more than 400 companies. Below I’ve highlighted some of my favorite technologies in the actives, thickeners, oily skin/antimicrobial, emulsions, hair and miscellaneous categories.
Acemannan Hydrogel Powder (Acemannan – Natural Aloe Costa Rica) contains >65% Acemannan which is the primary polyscharride found in Aloe Vera. It is a high MW acetylated Mannan with proven wound-healing and anti-inflammatory activity. Many other powdered grades of Aloe have reduced levels of Acemannan due to the processing conditions used.
Aqualicia (EU) (Hydrolyzed Acacia Macrostachya Seed Extract, Maltodextrin – Laboratories Expanscience / Seppic (EU)) is a hydrolyzed Acacia extract that stimulates the natural mechanisms in skin responsible for moisturization. After 29 days, a cream containing .5% Aqualicia was shown to increase skin NMF by 104% and moisture content by129% vs placebo. The mechanism of action is claimed to be increased Aquaporin 3, Filaggrin, Transglutaminase, and Claudin 1 activity.
A formulation containing 5% Biobenefly (Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract – Phamcos) has been shown to reduce skin pore number by 14% after 2 months. The claimed mechanism of action is reduced NF-KB activity. Keratinocyte proliferation known to cause enlarged pores.
Matmarine (EU) (Water, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Salicylate – Lipotec (EU)) is a fermentation-derived active that reduces Melanocortin-5 receptor levels involved in sebocyte differentiation. A cream containing 5% Matmarine was shown to reduce pore number by 21% after 14 days and sebum by 9% after 28 days. Combining with an active that reduces DHT should provide synergistic oil reduction.
Eyedeline (EU) (Butylene Glycol, Water, Plankton Extract – Lipotec), a cream containing 1% Eyedeline, was shown to reduce under eye dark circles by 36% vs placebo after 28 days and eye puffiness by 8%.
CinderellaCare (Butylene Glycol, Water, Thymus Serpillum Extract – Pharmcos) is a skin-lightening active based on the suppression of Melanin transport by Kinesin, a type of transporter protein. A lotion containing 1% CinderellaCare demonstrated a significant reduction in pigmented spots after 2 weeks of use vs placebo.
Cobiolift (Hydrolyzed Chenepodium Quinoa Seed – Cobiosa/MMP (EU)) is a polyscharride that produces an immediate skin tightening effect when used .5%. 80% of subjects showed a 30% wrinkle depth improvement after 1 hour.
Kopexil Aqua (Water, Diaminopyrimidine Oxide, Oxothiazolidine Carboxylic Acid – Kumar Organic Products) is a water-soluble hair growth active that was shown to be clinically superior to 5% Minoxidil.
GP4G SP (EU) (Water, Artemia Extract – Ashland (EU)) is an aquatic plankton extract that helps skin to better resist environmental factors such as solar and thermal shocks. It also reduces UVB damage, infrared damage, and increases the expression of HSP70 to limit skin damage during experimental heat shock (ex vivo)
Cosquat GA468 (Polyacrylate-1 – Kowa American Corporation) is a cationic thickener that needs to be acid neutralized. A 1% dispersion has a viscosity of 23k cps when neutralized to a PH of 4.5 using lactic acid and clear gels can be made.
Adhero GE-167 (Sodium Acrylate/Vinylacetamide Copolymer – Showa Denko) is a novel film forming, thickening polymer that has excellent PH stability, solvent, and salt compatibility. Aqueous solution are clear and have good moisturizing and skin feel properties.
Adeka NOL GT 730 (PEG-240/HDI Copolymer BIS-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Butylene Glycol, Water – Deka Corp) forms clear, non-tacky gels in water when used at 6.6%. You also can emulsify oils into the gel and form stable o/w emulsions. Gels are also salt and PH stable.
Lipofresh (Pentylene Glycol, Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Laurate, Glyceryl Laurate – Vantage) is a patented cationic antimicrobial blend based on the synergy between Ethyl Lauroyl Arginine and Glyceryl Laurate. Broad spectrum activity is claimed against gram positive and negative bacteria and yeast and mold.
MicroSilver BGTM (Silver – Biogate) is a highly porous 10 micron particle of pure medical grade silver with potent antimicrobial activity. Silver is probably the safest known antimicrobial. Microsilver is stable against discoloration since the surface is comprised of inert Silver Oxide and the porous interior is Silver metal. It is currently used in over 130 cosmetic and OTC products in Europe.
Pixalia (EU) (Propanediol, Water, Rutin, Hydroxycinnamic Acid – Laboratories Expanscience/Seppic (EU)) is an oily skin / anti-acne active that reduces Squalene by 28% and Squalene oxidation by 39% after 60 days. Pixilla also inhibits P. acnes.
RonaCare Serene Shield (Cyclohexyl Carboxyl Butyl Ester – EMD is a new active for oily/acne prone skin. In vivo testing has demonstrated significant antimicrobial activity against P. acnes in vivo (21% after 8 weeks) and a reduction in sebum production (35% after 8 weeks). It also has been shown to have a minimal negative impact on the skin’s good bacterial micro flora
Emulfeel SSC (EU) (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteth 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Laureth 7, Crambe Albssinya Seed Oil, Sorbitan Oleate – Chemyunion (EU)) can form cold processed lamellar gel network based oil in water emulsions.
Lipomulse Eco H (Poly(Glycerin/Propanediol) Stearates-Vantage) is a new naturally derived nonionic o/w emulsifier.
Crodazoquat MCC (EU) (Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Quaternium-87, Cetearyl Alcohol – Croda (EU)) is a conditioner designed to work well on a broad range ethnic hair types. It has been shown to work exceptionally well on damaged helping to restore hair to its natural hydrophobic nature.
Wavemax (Linum Usitatissimum Polysaccharide, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract – Chemyunion) is a combination of polysaccharides from Linseed and Chia seeds that has excellent hair styling properties.
GlucoTain (EU) (Clariant (EU)) is a new important, sustainable, surfactant platform for shampoos and body washes. Glucotains are mild secondary surfactants that function as thickeners and foam/lather modifiers. They provide a synergistic conditioning boost vs betaine with or without cationic polymer. Additional benefits include reduced color fading of dyed hair and increased hair volume.
Spiera (Butyrolactonethiol – Showa Denko) is a mild hair perming/straightening agent that works well at low PH and is less damaging to hair than Thioglycolic acid. It also allows for perming and hair coloring with less color fading.
Cosmosurf DDG20 (Bis-Octyldecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer – Surfatech Corp) is a new sunscreen water proofing polymer that has been shown in vivo to pass 80 minute wash resistance testing using 2% polymer in alcoholic lotions or oil in water emulsions.
Fresh-E (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract-GSI Exim America is a green tea extract that functions as a deodorant by neutralizing malodors. A 1% solution can neutralize 69% Trimethylamine, 94% Ammonia, and 45% Methyl Mercaptan odors. It is also approved as a quasi-drug in Japan.
Aqua Ceria (Water, Cerium Oxide (10%), Platinium Powder (.03%)) is a metal oxide dispersion that absorbs both UVA/B filter. It is totally transparent on skin and has been shown to have an SPF of 30 when used at 6% actives. It must be used with a monographed sunscreen if SPF claims are made.
POSS (Hybrid Plastics) are a new class of patented dendritic silicone based polymers that all contain a Polysesquioxane core. Expected benefits include superior transfer and wash resistance.
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