in-cosmetics Barcelona 2015 – 25th Year Brings Special Awards

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2col_330x200_round_logo_incosin-cosmetics, the largest personal care ingredient exhibition in the world, was held this year in Barcelona, Spain from April 14th-16th. A record number of over 700 global exhibitors participated in in-cosmetics Barcelona.

The 25 Years of Innovation award was initiated this year to celebrate the 25th anniversary of in-cosmetics. The award celebrates ingredients that have made a significant contribution in personal care formulation. The finalists included:

The award was won by the Matrixyl® peptide technology, which helped to revolutionize current anti-aging formulations (EU) and represented the second generation of skin repair actives following alpha hydroxy acids (EU). Peptides (EU) are multi-functional skin care actives that can reduce wrinkles, acne, improve skin tone/elasticity, and lighten or tan skin. They are potent actives that are used at typically < 20ppm in formulations. Peptides act as matrikines or messengers to signal skin to produce different types of protein to promote healing. Applying peptides to skin tricks it into thinking that it is injured and needs to make more various types of proteins.

Innovation award nominees for best active ingredient:

  • Brightenyl™ (Water, Glycerin, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid (Trihyhdroxybenzoic acid, THBC) by Induchem won the gold award. The active (THBC) is claimed to be released on skin by enzymes produced by skin microbes. Brightenyl demonstrates significant clinical results in 28 to 84 days resulting in up to a 18 fold reduction in hyperpigmented spots, 150% reduction in skin pigmentation, 600% reduction in skin redness, and a 16 fold improvement in skin brightness.
  • SWT™ (Maltodextrin, Swertia Chirata Extract) by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won the silver award. SWT stimulates keratinocyte (EU) proliferation to regenerate thin epidermis and improve the look of aged/wrinkled skin. The claimed mechanism is growth factor communication between adipose-derived stem cells and keratinocytes. SWT-7 was shown to reduce the appearance of vertical wrinkles in 7 days. Wrinkle reduction around the lips also helped minimize lipstick color migration.
  • Neuroguard (Sodium Ursolate, Sodium Oleanolate) by Codif won the bronze award. It claims to establish a healthy communication between nerves and fibroblasts and to reactivate dermal cells previously weakened by neuro aging. It also stimulates collagen (EU) and elastin synthesis and treats deep wrinkles in 28 days.
  • ProRenew Complex CLR™ (Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) by CLR Chem. Lab is a probiotic technology recommended to improve the barrier function of skin and stimulate cell renewal while improving its quality.
  • X50 Photoglow (Infinitec Activos) claims to safely turn light energy into chemical, metabolic energy (ATP) for a glowing, more luminous skin. Clinical testing demonstrated an increase in Luminance (L*) of 33% in 4 weeks. Radiance was also increased by 20% in 2 weeks and 55% in 4 weeks (best responder: 152% increase).
  • NOCTURSHAPE™ Blue Ingredient (Water, Propanediol, Disodium Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Plankton Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Glyceryl Caprylate) by Lipotec is an active claimed to target Nocturnin in adipocytes to reduce cellulite. Nocturnin is a protein involved in adipogenesis and lipid accumulation. A cream containing 4% Nocturshape reduced thigh circumference by almost 1 cm after 30 days and skin firmness by 23%.
  • EPIGENOMYL® (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract) by Silab improves the skin’s texture, reduces wrinkles, and increases tone. It has been shown to improve the perceived age in 100% of volunteers.
    Products available in Europe: Induchem | SWT™ (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) | ProRenew Complex CLR™ (CLR Chem. Lab) | X50 Photoglow (Infinitec Activos) | NOCTURSHAPE™ Blue Ingredient (Lipotec)

Innovation award nominees for best excipient ingredients:

  • Dow Corning® 3901 Liquid Satin Blend (Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) by Dow Corning Corporation won the gold award. It is a novel thick, stretchy clear elastomeric liquid which creates long lasting lubricity on skin while delivering a novel stringy novel texture. It demonstrates a higher lubricity than either silicone gum or elastomer blends both neat and in oil in water formulations.
  • Lecigel™ (Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin) by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won the silver award. It is a multifunctional ingredient that acts as an oil in water emulsifier, thickening agent, and has been shown to increase skin hydration. It also has been shown to increase the skin penetration of actives (2% Lecigel™ increased the skin penetration of Hexapeptide 3x vs a control formulation).
  • Suncaps™ by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd won the bronze award. It is a patented microencapsulation sunscreen technology that claims to increase photostability and achieve higher SPF values by reducing incompatibilities between UV filters. It also claims to reduce sunscreen skin penetration. Encapsulated versions of Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Oxybenzone, Octisalate, Homosalate, Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are available.
  • SOFTLETS F CC mix (Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Calcium Alginate, Xanthan Gum, Agar, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol) by Chongqing Pellets Techniques & Trade Co., Ltd are aqueous gels of alginate microcapsules which contain various pigments. The microcapsules have a pearalized sheen and release color when rubbed.
  • GlucoTain® Clear (Lauroyl Methyl Glucamide, Ethanol) by Clariant SE is a 60% active nonionic biodegradable, sugar-based surfactant that thickens shampoos and produces a fine, creamy foam. It also demonstrates a synergistic conditioning boost vs betaine with cationic polymers. Additional benefits include increased hair volume and reduced dyed hair color fade.
  • MinaSolve Green B by MinaSolve is a broad-spectrum, natural-based, anti-microbial agent
    Products available in Europe: Dow Corning® 3901 Liquid Satin Blend (Dow Corning Corporation) | Lecigel™ (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) | SOFTLETS F CC mix (Congqing Pellets) | Clariant | MinaSolve

The Green Award went to Aqualicia® (Hydrolyzed Acacia Macrostachya Seed Extract, Maltodextrin) by Laboratoires Expanscience (EU) – It is a concentrate of Acacia macrostachya seed peptides obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis. When used at 0.5% in formulations, NMF is stimulated by 104%, moisture by 129% and the thickness of the stratum corneum is increased by 123% (clinical study after 29 days, Raman spectroscopy method).

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