Recorded Tuesday, March 25, 2015 at 11AM EDT
Presented by BASF
Stephanie Biagini, Cosmetic Chemist for BASF, is constantly experimenting with new materials to come up with the next “Wow” product to meet un-met Market Needs. She will share her industry expertise in Color Care including a detailed examination of ingredients, formulations and problem solving in the lab.
Starting her career in the personal care industry in finished goods at Avon Products Inc, Stephanie Biagini moved to BASF Care Chemicals in 2013. She is currently a cosmetic chemist within the Application Technology Team for North America, in charge of all color care formulations & sales support. Stephanie has both a BS in Chemistry and an MS in Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickinson University. Presently, she is working towards her MBA at Fordham University.
Download the slides (for Prospector Members only) | Webinar Transcript
Stephanie Biagini: Good afternoon, everyone. As mentioned, I’m Stephanie Biagini, a cosmetic chemist within the Personal Care Division at BASF. Today, we’re gonna go through BASF Care Chemicals Color Formulation Guide. Our agenda for today is as follows: first, we’re going to go through the attributes of color products, then we’ll do a what’s in the bottle. This is our breakdown of what average formulations look like across all product types and color. We’ll move into ingredients and examples of BASF ingredients that can help you with your formulations, and end with trouble-shooting situations that can sometimes come up while formulating.
These are the types of color chart product forms that you’ll find. As you can see, [00:01:35] it covers a wide range of products, from your standard emulsions, to aqueous, to loose and pressed powders, and finally anhydrous systems both solid, meaning sticks and balms, and semi-solids, your glosses and mousses. The consumer expected attributes of these products are the first thing a formulator needs to think of when creating new formulas.
The first type of formulas we’ll cover are lip products. As you can see, [00:02:00] they need to cover a wide range of colors, have to have an attractive appearance. They have to be free from defects, easy to apply, and non-irritating and safe. What you’ll even notice in the next three slides is that these five attributes actually run across all product categories. Beyond that, lipsticks must be comfortable, moist, and conditioning, since these are qualities most women want out of a lip product. They also need to resist feathering, meaning when a woman applies it, it cannot move after application, non-staining if the product isn’t the same, and also, due to the place that the product is applied, it needs to have a pleasant scent and taste. Finally, they should be stable and not sweat, flake, cake, soften, harden, etc.
For eye products, you can see [00:02:45] the top five attributes repeat. Beyond the basics, eye products must have reasonable wear and removal properties, as well as high levels of pigmentation. Most importantly, they should not crease, flake, or cake.
Again, for mascaras, we see [00:03:00] the repetition at the top. Mascaras, like other eye products, need to have reasonable wear and removal, as well as high levels of pigmentation. Specific to mascaras, the consumer is looking for no caking on application, or flaking on drying. Thickening, lengthening, smudge-proof, long-lasting, volumizing, non-clumping are also all very important to mascaras.
Lastly, for foundations, we again see [00:03:20] the top five attributes. Foundations explicitly need to provide different levels of pigmentation suite to the customer needs for coverage, sheer to medium to full. Also, because women usually apply these covers once and wear all day, it needs to have long-lasting wear, but also be comfortable.
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