Skin oiliness is a common skin problem and products that help with oil reduction are a major consumer need, since most women have either oily or combination skin. Oily skin is caused by over production of sebum by sebaceous glands on the face and significantly contributes to acne and enlarged skin pores.
Excessive sebum production is believed to be caused by overly sensitive receptors to dihydroxy testosterone (DHT), the hormone that controls sebum production. DHT is produced from testosterone by the enzyme 5-alpha reductase. Reducing the activity of 5-alpha reductase is a common strategy used to reduce skin oiliness.
Oil Control Benefits
- Improved skin appearance, less shine, improved skin texture (smaller skin pores).
- More comfortable skin feel.
- Better makeup wear.
- Less acne and blemishes.
Oil Control Ingredients
- Panadoxine™ P (EU) (Pyridoxine Cyclic Phosphate – Daiichi Fine Chemicals (EU) / Presperse (distributor)) is a PH, light-stable, and water-soluble form of vitamin B6 (EU). Data demonstrates a 56% reduction in skin shine after 28 days and a 46% reduction in sebum after 28 days. No placebo was used.
- A formulation containing 2% niacinamide (EU) was shown to reduce sebum by 30% and pore size by 10% after 4 weeks of use (P&G US patent 583998-11/98).
- .5% Phytic acid (EU) (probably neutralized) was shown to reduce skin oiliness by 40% after 4 weeks in oily skin subjects.
- Teavigo® (EU) (Epigallocatechin Gallate – DSM (EU)), an emulsion containing 3% green tea (EU), reduced sebum by 35% after 4 weeks and 55% after 8 weeks. Inhibition of 5-alpha reductase is the mechanism of action. A cream containing 2% Polyphenon E (Epigallocatechin Gallate) was shown to be an effective acne treatment.
- A cream containing 5% ViaPure Sabal (serenoa serrulata fruit extract – Actives International) reduced sebum by 54% after 28 days (only 3 subjects).
- A cream containing 2% 5 Alpha Avocuta® Skin (EU) (butyl avocadate – Laboratoires Expanscience (EU)) was shown to reduce sebum by 40% after 3 weeks of use. 78% of subjects also perceived their skin to be less greasy and less shiny.
- Dehydroacetic acid (EU) is a globally approved preservative that has been shown to reduce sebum (P&G US patent 6150403 – 11/21/00). Synergy was also seen when combined with niacinamide.
- Sepicontrol™ A5 (EU) (capryloyl glycine and sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract – Seppic (EU)) is an active for oily skin that has been clinically proven to reduce comedones by 78% and skin oiliness by 20% after 2 months of use.
- A formulation containing 2% Mat-XS™ Clincal (EU) (water, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, xanthan gum, sarcosine – BASF (EU)) reduced sebum by 15% after 28 days and reduced pore size by 21%. 96% of women perceived their skin as being less greasy.
- One percent zinc gluconate (EU) was shown to reduce skin oiliness by 14% after 28 days of use and visible pores by 19%.
- A cream containing 2% SymClariol® (EU) (decylene glycol – Symrise (EU)) reduced sebum by 29% after 42 weeks. The material also has antimicrobial activity.
- Zinc (EU) and azelaic acid (EU) are claimed to inhibit 5 alpha reductase.
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Oil Control Ingredients in Prospector (EU)
References
- Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K, The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun; 8(2):96-101.
- Mahmood T, Akhtar N, Khan BA, Khan HM, Saeed T, Outcomes of 3% green tea emulsion on skin sebum production in male volunteers. Bosn. J. Basic Med. Sci. 2010 Aug; 10(3):260-4.
- Yoon JY, Kwon HH, Min SU, Thiboutot DM, Suh DH, Epigallocatechin-3-gallate improves acne in humans by modulating intracellular molecular targets and inhibiting P. acnes. J Invest Dermatol. 2013 Feb; 133(2):429-40. doi: 10.1038/jid.2012.292. Epub 2012 Oct 25.
- Improved Facial Surface Sebum and Pore Appearance With Niacinamide and SDA (Sodium Dehydroacetic acid: Rosemarie Osborne, PhD, Rachel Rose-Mansfield, MS, Akira Matsubara, PhD, Cheri Swanson, PhD, pgbeautygroomingscience.com.
- Stamatiadis D, Bulteau-Portois MC, Mowszowicz I. Inhibition of 5 alpha-reductase activity in human skin by zinc and azelaic acid. r J. Dermatol. 1988 Nov; 119(5):627-32.
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