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Ask the Expert: What is your advice for thickening an oil-in-water emulsion?

Posted on November 22, 2013 by George Deckner — 4 comments

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Problems with thickening oil-in-water emulsions are generally caused by the presence of electrolytes in your formulation. Most oil-in-water emulsions use acrylate-based polymers as thickeners that are very sensitive to electrolytes. Acrylate-based polymers are swellable polymers that thicken through binding water by charge repulsion. Electrolytes dissipate the charge and reduce the thickening efficiency of the polymer.

Recommendations

  • The easiest solution if you have <.5% electrolyte is to increase the concentration of thickener. If you need to use over 1-1.5% thickener to achieve your desired viscosity, you probably should consider a more salt tolerant thickener.
  • Add a salt tolerant water-soluble thickener like Xanthan gum 1 to your current formulation (.1-.5%). Often you also get viscosity synergy when you combine a swellable and soluble polymer together.
  • Ultrez 30 by Lubrizol (Carbomer) has significantly better electrolyte tolerance than other grades of Carbomer.
  • Hydrophobically modified acrylate polymers generally have much better salt tolerance due to hydrophobe/hydrophobe interaction. SepiMax Zen by Seppic (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6)  and Ultrez 21 by Lubrizol (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) are good options to try.

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Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.

While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.

Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.

George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.

George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services…

4 Responses to “Ask the Expert: What is your advice for thickening an oil-in-water emulsion?”

  1. Saeedeh Tahmasebi says:
    January 31, 2016 at 5:49 am

    Hi,
    May I ask a question?
    How can I have a fast absorbing moisturizing cream with long lasting feel?

  2. Luqman Muhammad says:
    April 18, 2020 at 11:37 pm

    I am just wondering that how can I thicken my soap based face wash

  3. Quinton says:
    August 20, 2021 at 7:37 pm

    When are “hydrophobically modified acrylate polymers” added: post emulsion formation and cooldown? It seems like even gentle incorporation/stirring-in of the thickener after emulsification would reduce particle size too much. Should Xanthan be added before or after the acrylate polymers?

  4. George Deckner says:
    August 24, 2021 at 3:57 pm

    Dear Quinton:

    I would add the Xanthan first to make sure its hydrated before adding the acrylate polymer.

    Thanks for reading!
    George

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