Panthenol is a multi-functional active ingredient that would be useful in most skin care formulations. Its efficacy has been substantiated in numerous peer-reviewed journals. The biologically active form of Panthenol, D-panthenol (EU), is the stable alcohol analogue of vitamin B5, pantothenic acid (EU), and is quickly converted to vitamin B5 (pantothenate) in the body. Pantothenic acid is present in all living cells and acts as an essential nutritional component due to its role in the formation of acetyl-co-enzyme A in the early stages of metabolism.
The main role of acetyl-co-enzyme A is to provide activated acetic acid into the citric acid cycle (Krebs Cycle). This produces carbon dioxide, water, and energy. Co-enzyme A also transfers to other molecules such as Nacetyl-glucosamine (EU) and acetylcholine (EU) to help in the production of steroids and the synthesis of fatty acids. Coenzyme A also helps the body detoxify foreign substances.
During synthetic preparation of panthenol, the racemic mixture (DL-panthenol, containing 50:50 of each form) is formed. Biological activity occurs only for D-Panthenol (Dex-Panthenol); literature methods for synthesis of only D-panthenol exist. For cosmetic use, Panthenol can be obtained in the D form, or as the racemic mixture. D-Panthenol is a highly viscous transparent liquid at room temperature. However, DL-Panthenol and salts of pantothenic acid are white powders. Both forms are soluble in water, alcohol, propylene glycol (EU), ether (EU), chloroform (EU), and slightly soluble in glycerin (EU).
8 Benefits of Panthenol
1. Repairs and strengthens damaged hair, thickens hair, reduces split ends and increases the tensile strength of the hair
2. Stimulates wound healing. Synergy with zinc oxide is claimed.
3. Enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation.
4. Anti-inflammatory activity. Can increase sun-protection factor (SPF).
5. Panthenol stimulates the proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and can accelerate cell turnover.
6. Has anti-aging benefits. Synergism with niacinamide (Vitamin B-3) is claimed.
7. It’s a penetrating moisturizer. Can penetrate and hydrate nails and hair.
8. Protects lips against solar-induced herpes.
H. Weiser, G. Erlemann, A cream with 5% Panthenol accelerates the healing of superficial wounds by 30%. Parfumerie und Kosmetik 1987, 68, 425-428.
E. Wagner, A cream with Panthenol regularly applied to the skin improves the moisture content of dry skin significantly. Panthenol und Phytantriol in der Kosmetik. Parfumerie und Kosmetik 1994,75, 260-267
H. Stellmann, A D-Panthenol ointment protects the lips against solar herpes Arztl. Praxis 1955, 7, 16.
G. Erlemann, R. Merkle, A rinse-off conditioner with 0.5% Panthenol applied once to the hair and rinsed off with water has a moisturizing effect on the hair for over 180 minutes. With water there is an effect for only 10 minutes. (Panthenol, Phytantriol, Vitamin E und Vitamin A in der Kosmetik. SOFW 1991, 117, 379-384.
E. Wagner, A shampoo with 0.5% Panthenol was diluted 1:10 with water and applied to the hair. A deposit of Panthenol up to 36.4 pg/g hair was seen after one cycle and up to 115.7 pg/g hair after five cycles. The penetration of Panthenol in hair was determined in the same way. After one cycle up to 7.5 pg/g hair and after five cycles up to 21.5 pg/g hair were measured. Panthenol und Phytantriol in der Kosmetik. Parfumerie und Kosmetik 1994, 75, 260-267.
The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author, and are not necessarily those of UL, ULProspector.com or Knowledge.ULProspector.com. While the editors of this site make every effort to verify the accuracy of its content, we assume no responsibility for errors made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor. All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced without prior authorization from Prospector.