If you’re not staying abreast of current trends in the personal care & cosmetics and cleaners industries, you’re losing out on information that could make or break your next formulation. In a rapidly evolving market, consumers are constantly shifting their buying habits, and formulators rarely have enough time to keep up. I hope you’ll use this list of resources to streamline your work process and create highly effective products that click with consumers.
Last week I covered six of twelve trends that I’ve identified as integral to successful product development in 2013. Check out the next six below, and, as before, if there is a particular trend for which you’d like to see an in-depth assessment, please leave a comment. I’ll be happy to add it to the list.
7. Natural or nature-identical actives.
Another result of the green trend is the growing popularity of natural actives or nature-identical actives. Despite the recession, consumer demand for nature-based cosmetics has remained strong, especially in Europe.
Botanicals and extracts are increasingly popular components in products positioned as “natural.” Recent developments in plant stem cell technologies are making waves in the anti-aging market. Plant stem cell ingredients available on Innovadex include:
- PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum by TRI-K Industries
- Echinacea Stems GX PlantStem Cells by Sederma
- PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica by Mibelle AG Biochemistry
In the pursuit of being able to label a product as natural, it’s important to remember that ingredient efficacy is still the ultimate decider. No one will care that the product is green, if it doesn’t perform. Several natural active ingredients are available on Innovadex.
8. Cosmetic soothing aids.
Products touting anti-inflammatory benefits and reduction of skin discomfort are on the rise. Often these products take a natural, plant-based slant, as well. A variety of soothing active ingredients are available to formulators. These materials work by blocking the TRPV1 thermo receptor to reduce burning and stinging reactions and alleviate neurologically based skin irritation.
- Noraplex (Nopal cactus extract by Barnet Products) stabilizes membrane channels responsible for calcium transport, which then blocks the initiation of the inflammatory response.
- SymSitive 1609 by Symrise (Pentylene Glycol and 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol) is a new active ingredient for treating sensitive skin. It has been shown to reduce capsaicin induced burning/stinging, calm skin and increase skin’s tolerance to physical stimuli.
9. Reduced use of polyethylene based micro-beads as exfoliants.
Concern about polyethylene micro-beads, or micro-plastic, in marine environments has been growing over the last several years. The micro-plastics can be ingested by aquatic life and can transfer chemicals into the environment. The beads are often found floating in sewage treatment plants and are difficult to eliminate.
Although exfoliants are not the only the source of micro-plastic, there is a strong push to remove them from all personal care products. If you’re looking to replace micro-beads in your formulations, try one of these natural substitutes:
- Almond Stone Granules by Carribbean Natural Products, Inc.
- Corn Meal (Irradiated) by McKinley Resources Incorporated
- Actiscrub® Sweet Almond Shell by Active Organics
- NatureBead waxes (Micro Powders)
10. Emulsifier-free emulsions.
Amid growing concerns regarding the negative health impact of certain chemical emulsifiers, many formulators are taking action to remove them all together. Emulsifier-free emulsions are typically sterically stabilized emulsions using swellable polymers as thickeners. Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean gum are common cosmetic thickeners.
11. Improved polymeric emulsifiers to formulate water in oil emulsions containing up to 90% water.
Improvements have made polymeric emulsifiers much more stable so that they can be formulated to quickly break when rubbed on skin.
12. Acryloyldimethyltaurate based polymers (AMPs) for thickening skin care products.
AMPs typically have better shear and UV stability than Carbomers and can be used down to a PH of 3.5. Two of the top-searched materials on the Innovadex web site were AMPs- based polymers:
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