By: Seolhee Bae, Clara Kim, Hyeseon Lee
Abstract
Formulators are challenged with creating new products that appeal to consumers on multiple levels. Products need to deliver excellent efficacy, elegant sensory while minimizing environmental impact. Water-free formulas are becoming increasingly popular due to their ability to minimize environmental impact by allowing greener packaging and reducing carbon footprint by lowering transportation energy required. This paper will demonstrate how PURESIL™ ORG 02 helps formulators create more sustainable water-free formulas that still exceed consumer expectations on sensory and performance.
- PURESIL™ ORG 02 is an eco-designed, high natural index silicone elastomer dispersed in bio-based alkane derived from renewable sugar cane.
- PURESIL™ ORG 02 improves sensory in both application and after-feel even in waterless formulas and visual benefits such as line-blurring.
- PURESIL™ ORG 02 improves hydration and aids in sebum control.
- PURESIL™ ORG 02 aids in the dispersion of sunscreen actives and also reduces whiteness on application of inorganic sunscreens.
Sensational Sensory
While we are seeing trends for waterless formulas as a means of water conservation and lowering carbon footprint, these formulas can often feel heavy and unpleasant during application. At low use levels, PURESIL™ ORG 02 helps formulators work around this problem. At just a 3% level, PURESIL™ ORG 02 improves the sensory of a waterless sunscreen balm containing both organic and inorganic UV filters. Figure 1 shows an expert panel sensory evaluation of the formula with PURESIL™ ORG 02 versus the formula without. Panelists noted that the formula was easier to spread, felt less waxy, lighter and more moisturizing feel than the control formula.
Figure 1: Sun Balm Expert Sensory Panel
Table 1. Sun Balm Formula
This same formula was also evaluated by the EBITouch® test and found to improve the sensory on several dimensions. Figure 2 shows that PURESIL™ ORG 02 not only improves spreadability but also reduces stickiness and greasiness while making the formula feel smoother and more slippery upon application.
Figure 2. Sun Balm Sensory Profile by EBITouch® Protocol
Note: Red circles indicate a decrease whilst blue circles indicate an increase.
Skin Hydration
Skin hydration is one of the most important and sought-after benefits in skin care products. A simple waterless skin balm formula was developed with 25% shea butter and 3% PURESIL™ ORG 02 as shown in Table 2. In addition to its function as a sensory modifier, PURESIL™ ORG 02 demonstrates the ability to work synergistically with shea butter to improve hydration over time. Skin hydration was evaluated in the stick formula vs. control, with 3% dimethicone (10 cst) vs. PURESIL™ ORG 02. Skin hydration was measured via corneometer® over 5 hours.
Figure 3 shows skin treated with both Skin Balms increased hydration over time. And using 3% PURESIL™ ORG 02 to results in even higher hydration levels, delivering 22% more skin hydration versus the 18% increase of the control formula.
Table 2. Skin Balm Formula
Figure 3. Skin Balm Hydration
Sebum Control
Formulating waterless products geared toward oily skin can be a challenge. As previously shown in the sun balm formula, PURESIL™ ORG 02 improves the texture of the sun balm formula by making it lighter and less greasy, both features that are important to consumers with oily skin. PURESIL™ ORG 02 also has an impact on sebum control. In this test, sebum levels are measured and reported as a percentage of the initial sebum level over six hours. As seen in Figure 4, the formula with PURESIL™ ORG 02 significantly lowers sebum over time, and % sebum reduction was not observed in the control formula (using Dimethicone in place of PURESIL™ ORG 02) and the bare skin.
Figure 4. Skin Balm Sebum Absorption
Visual Impact—Reduced Whitening and Line Blurring
Conscious consumers are aware of the damaging impact of sunlight on the health and appearance of their skin. Inorganic sunscreen filters are becoming popular as they can provide good protection while being perceived as more environmentally friendly and safer than many organic UV filter alternatives. However, solutions are needed to mitigate their propensity to impart a white cast on the skin. In Figure 5, we see the application of the sun balm formula containing 10% zinc oxide and 4.8% titanium dioxide UV filters. Typically the white cast is even more pronounced in photos due to the direct light reflection, as shown in the results below. In the middle photo of the control formula, the white cast is clearly visible. The whitening cast with the addition of 3% PURESILTM ORG 02 is minimized compared with the control and has the added benefit of line blurring as compared to the untreated skin.
Figure 5. Visual benefits of the Sun Balm
Summary
Environmentally conscious consumers continue to drive use of greener ingredients and product formats that minimize packaging, water use and carbon footprint. Waterless formulas are trending up for their ability to deliver on these goals. The waterless sun balm and skin balm with high natural index PURESIL™ ORG 02 elastomer gel demonstrated their versatility in easy to formulate and delivering consumer sought-after benefits such as lasting hydration, sebum control, visual and tactile sensory that provides a healthier look and feel.
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