Despite misinformation on the internet suggesting easy absorption of cosmetic chemicals, one of the hardest jobs for a Cosmetic Chemist is to actually ensure good penetration of key active ingredients! Many larger or water-based cosmetic ingredients don’t penetrate beyond the very outer layers of the epidermis – which can be desirable for most product types, but with some actives, such as whitening or anti-aging actives, penetration to the stratum basale, the deepest layer of the epidermis, is required to optimize activity.
Have you ever had a formula not work with the clinical efficacy required? Even if you have the right amount of active present in a very stable and biocompatible formula, it may be because the active has not penetrated to the site of activity – which may only be possible when formulating with maximum cosmetic absorption and penetration enhancers present. So, what methods and materials can be used to maximize absorption and delivery to the deeper layers of the epidermis?
In this video, Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, goes through different technologies methods and materials used to enhance delivery of actives and cosmetic ingredients. She looks at different pathways of delivery as well as materials that specifically enhance delivery to key epidermal sites of activity. Belinda also addresses key issues regarding safety and performance when enhancing delivery of actives.
Belinda also shows you how to put a base formula together using penetration-enhancing techniques and materials to maximize active absorption and delivery. Find out how – watch now!
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are there any natural options ?
Dear Evita:
Glycerine as an osmolyte is about your best natural option at this point. It still assists with carrying small water soluble substances to the mid layer of the epidermis. Putting your actives into an emulsion base will also help with carrying them through the outer layers if they too are a low molecular weight. Happy formulating!
Kind regards,
Belinda Carli
Belindi, I enjoyed the video and follow you on Youtube and appreciate your insight and sage advice. What are your thoughts on the green versions of propylene glycol or pentylene glycol as a natural osmolyte?
Hi Reid, the green or synthetic versions of glycols all act as osmolytes; whether they are green or not does not alter their performance. Glycerin is a fantastic humectant and osmolyte, the glycols also serve this purpose. They get used with a lot of extracts for this reason as well as being great solvents and supporting the extract shelf life. Happy formulating!
Good day
I really enjoyed your video. Maximizing Cosmetic Absorption with Penetration Enhancers. Can you please let me have the formulation for the cream you had made.
Thanks
Erika
Thanks for watching! Please email [email protected] for full formulation, method and supplier details. Happy formulating!
Kind regards,
Belinda Carli