Looking for a D5 alternative?

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Presented by SAFIC-ALCAN
May 14, 2020 at 3 p.m. CET

Clean beauty is one of the fastest growing trends in cosmetics. “Clean” consumers are requesting high performance, sustainable, transparent and safe ingredients. This demand concerns all cosmetic segments. In color cosmetics and in antiperspirants there is a growing consumer need for “clean” alternatives to controversial ingredients such as D5. Recent studies show that Neossance^TM Hemisqualane, a 100% naturally derived ingredient (based on ISO 16128), is an excellent alternative to D5.

Results of new clinical tests show that Hemisqualane formulated in a foundation displays equivalent wear to D5.  In a sensory evaluation by expert panelists, Hemisqualane received equivalent ratings to D5 on many relevant attributes (dry time, oiliness and spreadability). Also, the equivalence between Hemisqualane and D5 is supported by results of a consumer test (50 people) showing parity between these 2 ingredients in several sensory criteria including play time, wear and coverage. Hemisqualane performs better that D5 for removal of long wear make-up in technical test.

In a panel evaluation, trained experts perceived equivalence in immediate after-feel between antiperspirant formulations with Hemisqualane and D5. A consumer study of 60 individuals confirmed sensory equivalence between antiperspirant formulations with Hemisqualane and D5. 80% of consumers said they would switch to an antiperspirant with Hemisqualane if they knew their regular antiperspirant contained silicones.

Finally, there are many arguments in favor of putting Hemisqualane on the “clean” ingredients list: prepared from a renewable resource, not associated with deforestation, low water usage in a self-sufficient process, no competition with food consumption and low Green House Gas footprints.

 

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Presenter

Olivier Paquatte, Ph.D.
Technical Development Director
SAFIC-ALCAN

Olivier Paquatte graduated with a Ph.D. in Biophysics from University of Houston, Texas, USA and held various R&D positions in companies such as P&G, L’OREAL and GIVAUDAN.  He joined LASERSON in 2005 as “Marketing and Applications Director” and SAFIC-ALCAN  “Life Sciences Department” in 2014 where he is now the Cosmetics Technical Development Director.

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