Each year I identify and summarize what I think are some of the best new active and excipient formulation technologies. In 2016, natural based, sustainable ingredients continue to be a hot area for new active and excipient ingredient development.
Actives
- Syn-Up™ (Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalanine Amidinobenzamide Acetate-DSM Nutritional Products) inhibits two serine proteases in the epidermis which play a crucial role in controlling skin health. Syn-Up was shown in vitro to inhibit Urokinase activity by up to 97%, plasmin activity 41%, and MMP 9 by 60%. In vivo, a formulation containing 1% Syn-Up was shown to significantly reduce skin sensitivity and improve skin barrier function. An IFSCC 2016 meeting podium presentation by DSM on the technology won the best platform presentation.
- Neurophroline™ (Tephrosia purpurea extract-Givaudan) claims to inhibit Cortisol release and stimulate Beta Endorphin production in vitro. An in vivo clinical demonstrated a significant reduction in the effects of pollution (Ozone/polycyclic hydrocarbons) on skin. A significant reduction in skin color/redness and dark circles was also observed after using a product containing 2% Neurophroline for one month versus placebo. Neurophroline won the gold award for best active ingredient at the in-cosmetics show.
- Miniporyl™ (Isopentyldiol, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract) claims to improves keratinocyte differentiation, Involucrin, Filaggrin, and keratin 10 synthesis. It also was shown to Inhibit 5α-reductase and reduce sebum accumulation in Sebocytes. Miniporyl won the silver award for best active ingredient at the in-cosmetics show.
- Cellynkage™ (Propanediol, Water (aqua), Saccharide Isomerate-Lipotec) is a new marine ingredient claimed to enhance direct communication between skin cells. On aging, a slowdown in this communication occurs, resulting in inefficient cell communication. Cellynkage helps increase Connexins which help mediate signals between epidermal and dermal cells. Application of a 2% active cream to menopausal skin for 56 days increased epidermal thickness by 15%, collagen density in the dermis by 2.4%, and improved skin surface uniformity by 7.9%. In addition, the microrelief structure reportedly improved by 113% compared with a placebo.
- SYN-STAR™ (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate,Glycerin, Aqua-DSM Nutritional Products) claims to stimulate PLOD3, an enzyme known to increase collagen stability. PLOD3 (procollagen-lysine, 2-oxoglutarate 5-dioxygenase 3) is known to be important for the stability of intermolecular collagen crosslinks. In vitro, SYN-STAR was shown to inhibit DPP4 (dipeptidyl peptidase-4), a key enzyme involved in sebum flow. A 28-day clinical using subjects with different skin tones demonstrated significant wrinkle reduction and skin mattifying effects.
Excipients
- ElfaMoist™ AC (N Acetyl DGA-AkzoNobel) claims to be a penetrating humectant that increases hydration and keep skin moisturized for 30 hours. ElfaMoist was shown to penetrate the Stratum Corneum up to six layers and provide significantly better skin hydration than Glycerin after 24 and 30 hours. It also proved to be significantly less tacky/sticky versus Glycerin and be PH- and viscosity-stable in formulations.
- Aqua Ceria (Water, Cerium Oxide, Platinum-GSI Creos) is a photostable, non-skin whitening metal oxide that can absorb light from 190-460nm. A lotion containing only 3% active Cerium Oxide was shown to have an SPF of 33.6. Micronized metal oxides like Zinc and Titanium Dioxide cannot absorb blue light from 400-460nm. It is not well understood what the biological effects of blue light are on skin. Note that Cerium Oxide is not a monographed sunscreen active.
- KAO SOFCARE® GP-1 (PPG3 Caprylyl Ether-Kao Chemical) is a multifunctional ingredient that can provide shine and conditioning properties to hair. It can be used as a total or partial replacement for Amodimethicone/Dimethicone and can be used to make clear shampoo formulations. It also can be used with silicone to reduce the silicone level in the final formulation from 1 to .25%. Additional benefits include enhanced foam and better hair volume than silicone.
- Glossamer™ L6600 (Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer-Coast Southwest) is a unique biodegradable, bio-based liquid polymer made of Tung (China wood) and rapeseed oils. Its film-forming properties can help provide gloss, moisturization, and improve water/wear-resistance of formulations.
- Carpool® Smart 1000 Polymer (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/HEMA Crosspolymer, 25% solids-Lubrizol) is an efficient nonionic thickener for surfactant based formulations. It has excellent thickening performance across a broad pH range and provides good formulation clarity and solids suspending power. The typical use level is 1.5-2.5% active polymer and it has good viscosity synergy with salt.
- Dow Corning® FA 4103 Silicone Acrylate Emulsion (Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer and Laureth-1 Phosphate-Dow Corning) is designed to provide long-wear performance, wash resistance, and comfort to water-based products.
- Millithix MT800 (Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl PPG-4) Hexamethylenediurea-Milliken) is a new gellant for non-polar solvents. It can form gels at <100°C using 1-10% and can make clear formulations in many different types of solvents
- Itaconix® VELASOFT™ (Sodium Polyitaconate-Itaconix, 83% active) is an 8K molecular weight homopolymer of Itaconic acid that is naturally derived and biodegradable. It has good chelating, moisturizing, and hair fixative properties.
- Hest PGFA (Polyalkoxylene Polyester Copolymer-Global Seven) is an emulsifier for water in oil emulsions that requires no heat or homogenization. Emulsions containing over 90% water can be produced. Stable emulsions can also be produced with viscosities ranging from low/ thin to very viscous.
- Diol PD-V (Pentylene Glycol-Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. Ltd.) is a high purity water white, low odor grade of Pentylene Glycol produced by fermentation. It has good antimicrobial activity using ~3% in formulations. It offers a good option to help increase antimicrobial activity in natural based formulations.
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