Hyaluronic acid is a known and proven ingredient for moisturizing in skincare products. But this ubiquitous biopolymer has become highly trendy recently for its ability to imbue skin with a dewy, youthful plumpness. New products allow HA to penetrate below the skin’s surface and may even stimulate collagen production.
News Drill Down
- According to an article from The New York Times Fashion & Style blog, hyaluronic acid used to be less effective when applied to the skin’s surface, as its “molecules were too big to penetrate the skin’s surface (scientists call this high molecular weight), so results could be easily washed away.” But now there are new formulations being introduced that “offer cocktails of molecules at lower weights, which can make their way into skin.” says the media outlet.
- Yahoo News lists several popular HA-containing products in its recent article and notes that the ingredient’s moisturizing abilities are key to its usefulness in anti-aging products, as it helps skincare actives absorb into the skin’s surface. The article also notes that “there is some evidence to suggest that the new multi-weight HA formulas may actually stimulate new collagen production, and in turn, fight aging.”
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The New York Times: The Second Coming of Hyaluronic Acid
Yahoo News: Hyaluronic Acid: The Breakthrough Ingredient that Promises Younger Skin
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I have serious doubt about the claims cosmetic world is making about the effect of hyaluronic acid when applied topically. It is a large molecule. How can this penetrate through the skin? Its effect is just superficial. It does not change the level of hyaluronic acid in the skin.
In my opinion, much better way to see the effect of hyaluronic acid is to stimulate Hyaluran synthase to increase the level of hyaluronic acid and by preventing hyaluronic acid degradation by inhibiting Hyaluronidase activity. Hyaluran synthase can be increased by Retinol and highly pure Sytenol A (Bakuchiol), a natural alternative to Retinol. Hyaluronidase activity can be inhibited by a standardized Terminalia chebula edible fruit extract (Synastol TC).Both products are available from Sytheon.