The technology showcase poster session presents new ingredients, methods/instrumentation, and formulation technology relevant to the personal care industry. It is held in conjunction with the annual SCC scientific meeting each December in New York City. Below are listed several of the more interesting technologies I saw.
SITA Foam Tester R2000 by SITA Messtechnik is an automated foam generating and testing device that can measure foam volume, height, stability, and speed to generate. It is simple to use and the results are very reproducible. An excellent device for anyone doing body wash and shampoo formulation.
Epsilon Model E100 by Biox Systems Ltd is a device which measures skin hydration based its surface permittivity or dielectric constant. It also measures hydration across a large areas of skin unlike existing instruments based on conductance or capacitance. Excellent correlation was demonstrated versus the Corneometer. I believe this is a significant improvement in measuring skin hydration versus other methods.
MicroCurb™ OC (Caprylic Acid, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract) by Kemin is a natural broad spectrum preservative derived from oregano that is effective against gram positive and gram negative bacteria, mold and yeast. The minimum inhibition concentration against most organisms ranged from .1-.5% and typical use levels .5-1% in formulations.
EcoSmooth™ Delight (Ethylene/Octene Copolymer, 15% solids) by Dow Chemical is a sensory modifier for skin care applications. It helps reduce tack and the greasy feel of formulations. Additional benefits include a smooth skin feel, and matte soft focus effect on skin.
EU: EcoSmooth™ Delight | Dow Chemical
Poly Suga®Mulse D-9 (Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, 64% solids) by Colonial Chemical is a new non EO, natural based solubilizing agent. It can solubilize a wide range of essential oils at 2.2-3.5 parts D9 (active basis) to 1 part essential oil. It can also act as a high HLB emulsifier in lamellar gel network based oil in water emulsions.
Garamite® 7308 (Quaternium-90 Sepiolite, Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite) by Eckart America is a thickener and suspension aid for low to medium polarity liquids. It consists of a mixture of 2 organically modified clays with different morphologies making them much easier to disperse without needing high shear or the use of a polar additive normally needed when using other organically modified clays like Bentones (Elementis). It also provides a higher yield value than Bentone and exhibits less settling. Garamite 7305 is recommended for use with polar liquids.
Abil® ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium 22, Polyglyceryl 3 Caprate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Propylene Glycol, 30% active) by Evonik is a microemulsion of Silicone Quaternium 22 that deposits ~1300 ppm of active when used at 1% in a hair conditioner formulation compared to 100 ppm added neat. Superior conditioning was also demonstrated when used in a shampoo with PQ10. Improved color fastness of dyed hair also also seen (24% better after 20 washings).
EU: Abil® ME 45 | Evonik
Belsil® SPG 128 VP (Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl Dimethicone, Ethoxy Glucoside, 20% active) by Wacker Chemical is a silicone based glucoside that has excellent pigment and metal oxide dispersing properties. A significant SPF boost was observed in a w/o formulation using only metal oxides versus using a conventional available dispersion.
EU: Belsil® SPG 128 VP | Wacker Chemical
Pencare DPTM (Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Penford Products is a natural based cationic hair conditioning polymer that claims better wet comb than Polyquaternium 10 or cationic guar. It also has excellent clarity in water.
Vari® Stan PE (Propanediol, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract) by MMP is a fruit extract that has been shown to have potent activity against acne (minimum inhibition concentration 1-10 ppm-active basis) and Bacillus subtilis. Anti-inflammatory activity against UVA/B erythema was also demonstrated
EU: MMP
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